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#1
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Okay guys, I just replaced my front springs on the 69 ragtop. Previous to doing it I've been getting a metal snapping noise like a bad tie rod end when I take off, especially when changing directions after braking in the front left side. In the course of doing the spring job I found the lower ball joint falling out of the A arm so I welded some lines into the frame to take up the space and pressed the ball joint back in thinking I found and solved the problem. Got it all back together and though it's sitting up nice now fixing the spring sag, I'm still getting that snap noise when I take off. Sometimes its more than a single creak like two or three quick snaps. I've got all new upper and lower ball joints installed as well as tie rods, centerlink and idler. New poly sway bar links, about the only thing that wasn't replaced were the control arm bushings but they're not blown out. Upper A frame bolts are tight and no alignment shims are missing. So what am I missing here?
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#2
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Quote:
![]() Hopefully you can try some of the guys' advice on what it could be and let me know...The one I'm thinking is the lack of grease in my balljoints as the seals are split and may be letting most of the grease come out while driving...hopefully it's that simple as all my bushings/suspension is new and I'm not in any mood to remove upper/lower A-arms/springs... ![]() HTH.. Robert
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1969 GTO 400-4speed, H/T 1969 GTO 400-RAIII-4speed, Convertible 1969 Grand Prix SJ |
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#3
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had a similar problem on my modern car, sounded like a crack crack as i took off, finally after no luck finding it took it to a local mechanic who spent 20 minutes in the pit as his wife moved the car back and forth, found a nut on a suspension part needed another half turn and that was that. It was driving me nuts. try going over all nuts on steering and suspension. good luck
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#4
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Something else to check.....After getting the front suspension rebuilt on my car I was getting a noise on the driver side front. It turned out that the spring was not seated right in the lower control arm and it was rubbing on the frame(?) if I remember right. I had to crawl under the car and look closely since it was on the back side of the spring.
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1968 Lemans Convertible Cameo Ivory, Red Interior, White Top |
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#5
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I would agree with the thought of a bolt or two not being quite tight enough. I would also makes sure everything is greased well including the new urethane bushings that were installed. They should of came with a special grease that needs to be used.
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#6
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Dennis, I am getting this noise too. Same or not shore.... Mine is on take off from a stop and get a "click" then another "click" Like a piece of metal was being snapped. Mine is coming from rear of car for shore.
Was told it is was rear control arms.... But not positive on that. But is very annoying and embarrassing when in public area.
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Send it! It’s going home on a trailer. |
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#7
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okay, looks like I'm crawling back under there with a pair of pliers and a box wrench to try retightening the tie rods though it seems like a longshot.
Shiney, I don't think it's the springs as these are newly reseated since the change out and definitely located correctly with the end of the coil half way over the drain hole. Dominick, I've actually got the noise coming out the rear end as well just as you described which is definitely different than the front. I'd also heard that could be a control arm thing back there but hadn't done anything about checking it out yet so I didn't include it in my problem with the front. Hmmmm I guess the one spot I didn't think of are the lower A frame bolts. And I hear you loud and clear on the embarrassment angle in public trying to back into slots at the shows with the front end snapping like it's falling apart; damn these old junkers!!! Rob, tell me about it with the damn seals! These ball joints are two years old and the grease boots on all 4 of them are ripped to shreds and/or completely missing and it's only got 1400 miles on it since then. Looks just beautiful on the detailed a frames with globs of crap all over the place. What's so hard about making a boot that doesn't disintegrate? Even the originals lasted longer than that and it's 40 year old technology. |
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#8
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Also check rear shock mounts, these can also make a click and it only takes half a turn too loose!
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#9
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I had a snap noise coming from the rear of my car. Turned out to be the rear u-joint. I guess 175,000 miles was the limit for the factory u-joint.
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You lost me at LS. |
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#10
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Mash, everything in the back end is tight after checking with a breaker bar and of course I can't get it to do it now. (it'll wait til I have someone in the car so they can hear it and point it out to me)
Update on the front end click: I got an 1/8th turn out of the lower A frame bolts, tie rods and ball joints were tight, and then I found it....the four bolts holding the new upper ball joint on all gave me a good 1/4 turn more. Cranked them down, buttoned the wheel back on after regreasing it all and not a peep now. Ah....pleasant silence. Guys, thanks for pushing me back to the obvious! I tend to get a little too smart for myself sometimes and need this forum to humble me once and awhile! |
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#11
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Just to throw this out there, I have a '71 Olds Vista Cruiser wagon that has overload springs and air shocks and the shocks will hit the springs on acceleration, just enough play. It has all new everything, they are just too close to each other and I do have the extended shock mounts, regular shocks work fine. It drove me crazy until I checked it out good and could see paint transfer between the springs and shock tubes.
Allan |
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#12
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Check engine mounts and see if fan is hitting the shroud on launch.
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