[wynter919]

funny you should say that about the heads because my local expert in the uk also said that. but ive checked via wallace racing, spoke to year one and mark at summit racing checked every web site i know as well as books i have and they all confirm that they are 1970 16 small valve rated at 330

right from wallace racing site :
1970 400 330 HP XV A 10.0cr 066cam 16/sm valve (1.96/1.66)1-4bbl 7040264 Block Casting 9799914
1970 400 330 HP XZ A 10.0cr 066cam 16/sm valve (1.96/1.66)1-4bbl 7040264 Block Casting 9799914

i showed my local expert who said no way there 16 small valve,they should be big valve. but the confusion seems to be that 1968 had 16 cast heads that were big valve and he didnt realise/hadnt worked on 1970 16 heads which were acctually small valve, most hear 16 and assume 69 big valve, just one of those unfortunate years they doubled up on numbers but changed the spec. i think that might be where your getting confused
there was a 290hp rate 16 that year as well and i asked year one and summit about that as well, they say only differance between them is that the 290 was 2bbl and the 330 had a 4bbl carb, heads were extly the same as well as cam , intake and the rest. but then my number all match up to the 330hp xv anyway

what will be the symtons of running this cam on a stock converter?

thanks for the advice ppl

[72blackbird]

David,
I agree with Will- get those no.16s ported, put some 2.11/1.77 Ferreas in your heads, and your 400 will make better use of the cam and extra RPM. A higher stall torque converter (2000 to 2500 rpm) will launch you off the line (or out of the corners) with more power.

I'd go with lighter forged units than the TRW/ Speed Pros- the JE (SRP), Ross, or Probe (SRS) units are much lighter and will help you accelerate out of the corners faster. The stock cast rods are only good for stock buildups and a grenaded motor in racing- a set of Tomahawk 4340 Lightweight I-beam rods are lighter and stronger than 4340 H-beams, and will help that 400 rev hard. Pacific Performance Racing has both the dished SRS pistons and I-beam rods at very reasonable prices. The stock crank will be fine for a 400 hp buildup, just be sure to prep and debur the crank as outlined in Jim Hand's Pontiac book. I would also replace the stock main and head bolts with ARP units- stud bolts for the mains and head bolts up top- these are far stronger than the factory pieces. Don't forget to get your rotating assembly balanced.

I run a modified Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary- it has the jet extensions, nitrophyl floats, secondary metering block, etc. It is very easy to tune, and I never starve for fuel in the turns unlike those other carbs with side-hung float bowls. I'm using a port-matched e-performer intake, and the combo doesn't choke the motor even at 5800 rpms (past 6000 may be another story). I have a crane 284H cam (230@ .050, 284 dur., .480" lift), Hooker comps and 2.5" dual exhaust. I had a tired TH-350 w/ a 2000 stall converter, 3.08 10-bolt posi, and my 'Bird still ran a 13.04 @104 mph. Not bad for a 'Bird set up for road race.

Geno