[andrewb70]

Sorry that I am a little late to the party. Looks like you have a well detailed plan. One thing I should mention is that the GM Performance harness and ECU combo, like I am using, does not support automatic transmissions. It is a manual trans only harness. If you are going with an automatic, I would suggest getting in touch with Speartech. If you want to use the GM harness and explore other options, there are a few good ones. My favorite would be to contact Twist Machine, and get one of their programmable ECUs.

I would go with the stock Corvette accessories. Notch the frame for the A/C compressor. Use Edelbrock adapter plates, as they will mount the bellhousing in exactly the same position as before. Edelbrock also makes nice headers for your application.

I am using an LS7 cam and my combo made 418RWHP. So I would definitely recommend some kind of cam swap. Even a super mild cam will get you an extra 30-40 HP without sounding like it has any kind of non-stock cam.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Andrew

[gto65lvr]

BRP? makes conversion mounts and rear x member for the swap with the 4l60 it seems there is not tunnel work needed on the 64-67

The engine mounts he makes allow you to use the F body engine as a take out and not have to notch frames or the like and puts you with the proper drivelline angle

489 bucks for the setup.

Although from what I read it keeps adding up with the trans tail shaft conversion for mech. speedo if you want it and so on and so on.

I have been looking recently I picked up an LS1 and 4l60 for my 37 ford but am thinking very hard about putting it in my 65 tempest wagon would make a very nice fuel efficient fast driver over my 4sp and ram air 3 cammed 400 at 10.25:1 engine.

Plus the weight savings will really change the handling characteristics something fierce

[b-man]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

Sorry that I am a little late to the party. Looks like you have a well detailed plan. One thing I should mention is that the GM Performance harness and ECU combo, like I am using, does not support automatic transmissions. It is a manual trans only harness. If you are going with an automatic, I would suggest getting in touch with Speartech. If you want to use the GM harness and explore other options, there are a few good ones. My favorite would be to contact Twist Machine, and get one of their programmable ECUs.

I would go with the stock Corvette accessories. Notch the frame for the A/C compressor. Use Edelbrock adapter plates, as they will mount the bellhousing in exactly the same position as before. Edelbrock also makes nice headers for your application.

I am using an LS7 cam and my combo made 418RWHP. So I would definitely recommend some kind of cam swap. Even a super mild cam will get you an extra 30-40 HP without sounding like it has any kind of non-stock cam.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Andrew

Andrew,

Thanks for the helping me get things started here, you've given me some very important bits of specific engine mounting and header application info that I really appreciate.

I have four questions for now, more to come later I'm sure.

1.) What is the part # for the LS7 cam?

I'm all for running OEM stuff in this engine rather than aftermarket for longevity's sake. LS7 427 cam specs: Duration @ .050 211/230,.593/.588 lift with 1.8:1 rockers, lift will be reduced to .560/.555 with stock LS3 1.7:1 rockers (fine by me).

2.) Exactly what rubber (or urethane?) engine mounts/OEM steel frame mounts do I need to make the Edelbrock (P/N 6701) adapter plates work? Link to adapter plates:http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=11

I assume I'll need to source some Chevelle pieces here. I've done some searching/reading on a couple of different sites and I see different combinations of wide/narrow/short/tall Chevelle engine mounts and frame mounts mentioned for the A-body swaps. Which direction do I need to go here?

3.) How much ground clearance do the Edelbrock (P/N 65073) LSX swap headers offer? How far do they hang below the frame rail on your car Andrew? Link to headers:http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

4.) Which oil pans will work with the engine in this mounting position, either factory or aftermarket?

I noticed while reading through your thread that you bought an aftermarket pan from Autokraft for your '70. Since buying that pan have you learned anything more about other pan options for the A-body cars?

I am really leaning towards running an un-modified factory pan. I know my car won't have the cornering ability to require anything more than a factory pan. I'd like to retain any additional bottom end reinforcement the thick cast aluminum pan has to offer, even though that added stiffness may be more sales hype than fact. Also trying to keep costs in check here, I really don't want to spend $400-$600 on an aftermarket pan and possibly relocate the oil filter.

The Corvette pan that the LS3 engine comes with is supposed to be fairly compact, but I'm considering the GM factory LH8 pan which is even more compact and supposed to be a good fit for early GM F & A-body LSX conversions (2008 Hummer H3 Alpha pan w/gasket & bolts: P/N 12614821, pickup/screen: P/N 12608593). P/N 19212593 is for the kit that includes the pan, pump pick up, dipstick, hardware, gaskets, and windage tray http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=245308.

I've seen a picture of the LH8 pan in a '64 Lemans with a BRP mounting kit but I'm not sure if the engine is mounted in close to the same location as mine will be. It looks to sit a bit higher with the BRP kit than I want mine to sit, not sure. The engine mounts look tall, and it appears the engine is sitting high to help the accessory drives clear the frame/steering components with minimal cutting/grinding. Link to thread with pics:http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43481 The LH8 pan looks to hang about 1" below the crossmember, not a big issue as I'm assuming the Edelbrock headers will hang about that far below the bottom of the frame rail as well.

Thanks again to you and to everyone else here who have taken the time to help me with their constructive input.

So far it looks like the Edelbrock engine mounting plates and headers will be on order pretty soon, still up in the air on the oil pan and exactly what OEM engine mounts I'll need.

Bart

[Keith Seymore]

Bart -

I was at Memphis this weekend for the NMCA meet and one of the manufacturers on the midway specialized in GM LSX motor transplants in various vintage musclecars. The car they had on display was an old rotted '64 Lemans hardtop with a LS motor installed.

I grabbed some business cards:

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Shawn Henderson
Marketing and Sales
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-873-0847
www.MuscleRods.com

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Bart Johnson
Shop Manager
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-446-0653
www.MuscleRods.com

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Phil Brewer
Owner
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-457-0987
www.MuscleRods.com

There also was a company that did accesory drive bracketry.

They were

Kwik Performance
1146 W. Pheasant Run St
Springfield MO 65810
417-955-1467
www.kwikperf.com

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by b-man

Andrew,

..........

1.) What is the part # for the LS7 cam?

I'm all for running OEM stuff in this engine rather than aftermarket for longevity's sake. LS7 427 cam specs: Duration @ .050 211/230,.593/.588 lift with 1.8:1 rockers, lift will be reduced to .560/.555 with stock LS3 1.7:1 rockers (fine by me).

2.) Exactly what rubber (or urethane?) engine mounts/OEM steel frame mounts do I need to make the Edelbrock (P/N 6701) adapter plates work? Link to adapter plates:http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=11

I assume I'll need to source some Chevelle pieces here. I've done some searching/reading on a couple of different sites and I see different combinations of wide/narrow/short/tall Chevelle engine mounts and frame mounts mentioned for the A-body swaps. Which direction do I need to go here?

3.) How much ground clearance do the Edelbrock (P/N 65073) LSX swap headers offer? How far do they hang below the frame rail on your car Andrew? Link to headers:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D65073&N=700 +4294923429+400065+4294839039+4294918680+429479936 5+115&autoview=sku

4.) Which oil pans will work with the engine in this mounting position, either factory or aftermarket?

I noticed while reading through your thread that you bought an aftermarket pan from Autokraft for your '70. Since buying that pan have you learned anything more about other pan options for the A-body cars?

I am really leaning towards running an un-modified factory pan. I know my car won't have the cornering ability to require anything more than a factory pan. I'd like to retain any additional bottom end reinforcement the thick cast aluminum pan has to offer, even though that added stiffness may be more sales hype than fact. Also trying to keep costs in check here, I really don't want to spend $400-$600 on an aftermarket pan and possibly relocate the oil filter.

The Corvette pan that the LS3 engine comes with is supposed to be fairly compact, but I'm considering the GM factory LH8 pan which is even more compact and supposed to be a good fit for early GM F & A-body LSX conversions (2008 Hummer H3 Alpha pan w/gasket & bolts: P/N 12614821, pickup/screen: P/N 12608593). P/N 19212593 is for the kit that includes the pan, pump pick up, dipstick, hardware, gaskets, and windage tray http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=245308.

I've seen a picture of the LH8 pan in a '64 Lemans with a BRP mounting kit but I'm not sure if the engine is mounted in close to the same location as mine will be. It looks to sit a bit higher with the BRP kit than I want mine to sit, not sure. The engine mounts look tall, and it appears the engine is sitting high to help the accessory drives clear the frame/steering components with minimal cutting/grinding. Link to thread with pics:http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43481 The LH8 pan looks to hang about 1" below the crossmember, not a big issue as I'm assuming the Edelbrock headers will hang about that far below the bottom of the frame rail as well.

Thanks again to you and to everyone else here who have taken the time to help me with their constructive input.

So far it looks like the Edelbrock engine mounting plates and headers will be on order pretty soon, still up in the air on the oil pan and exactly what OEM engine mounts I'll need.

Bart

Bart,

I am sorry for the late response, but let me see if I can tackle some of your questions.

1. No clue. LOL. I got mine from Jeff Schwartz. Give him a call. I think he has a couple of new, take out, LS7 cams sitting around that were taken out of new crate engines. http://www.schwartzperformance.com/

2. Used the exact same parts that I had with the BBC. I have reproduction Chevelle big block frame stands and Energy Suspension, tall/narrow poly mounts.

3. I haven't measured the ground clearance, but the Edelbrock headers tuck up nicely. I can take a measurement if this is critical. I will say that they are the best fitting headers I have ever owned.

4. For me, the only option was the Autokraft pan. From everything that I have read, non of the OEM pans will work the the Edelbrock mounts. I needed to use the Edelbrock mounts because their engineer claimed that their mounts will position my bellhousing in the exact same location as it was with my BBC. This was critical for me since I did not change the transmission. My shifter needed to be in the same location as before. As it turned out, Edelbrock designed the mounts as promised and my shifter is in exactly the same location as before. I asked if I can use the CTSV pan, but the Edelbrock engineer told me I could not and sent me pictures that showed where the pan hit. Believe me, they really wanted an OEM pan to work, but as it stands none do. So with that I got the Autokraft pan because it is the only steel pan that retains the oil filter in the stock location. That was the critical feature for me. I would never use the LH8 pan. It hangs 2 inches below the front crossmember. That just looks hideous.

If you don't mind moving the engine back I have seen swaps that use the 4th gen F-body pans. Keep in mind that moving the engine back can present problems with the heads hitting the firewall if you ever have to swap transmission. When the seal in my hydraulic TOB blew I had to pull the trans. With the engine in the stock location I was able to really tip the transmission down and service it without an issues. I can see if the engine was further back the heads might hit the firewall.

I hope that helps.

Andrew