[Brewster]

Yes, and the plug was in place before painting if you want to replicate the original look??

[1973Formula]

TAKID-

Engine looks great. I am getting ready to do mine(L75). What type of paint did you use? I have some hi temp dupli-color engine primer that I am going to cover with PPG single stage enamel. I would hate to see it all burn off after a couple of heat cycles. Do you have any suggestions for me? Yours' turned out great.

-Tom

[takid455]

The oil pressure gauge also has a dk blue wire. that is hooked up. all 3 of these wires are in the same harness

[johnta1]

Is this the original wiring harness?

Here's a partial pic of 74's wiring diagram.

73's was a little different. (different color)

[takid455]

It appears to be wires for the TCS GRD and elec downshift (2 prong connector) and the thermal override switch. where are they located? what do these switches look like? Most of the wiring was disconnected and some of the engine partially disassembled when I got the car. there is one switch on the trans directly under the forward most shift linkage that is a one prong unit that I don't have a wire connected to yet. is this where the dark blue wire goes for the thermal over ride? As far as I can tell, this is the original 74 wiring harness. Being original, when I laid the harness over the engine, just about all the plugs laid right where they needed to be.

[takid455]

Thanks for the complements. I was expecting to get nailed by the purist . I found out that I need to loosen the drivers header to install the starter . other than that and some vacuum line routing, I should just about be ready for firing. I do have a few questions though.
1) I have a dark blue wire and a connector with a blk/orange and tanish wire without a home. My wiring diagram tells be the connector one is for an electric downshift solenoid. didn't think manual cars had this? not sure about the stray blue one. Reverse light switch on the trans?

2) reverse/ 1st linkage rod as the book calls it from the frame bracket to the trans does not clear the headers. Can this remain off or is there a solution to this? If I have to bend the crap out of it, I'll find another one and keep this stock one on the side.

Originally Posted by Brewster

Yes, and the plug was in place before painting if you want to replicate the original look??

When I get one, I'll paint it prior to installation and hope the paint doesn't crack.

Tom - I used Dupont ChromaOne( single stage). I've used this on several engines and it holds up very well. The only place it burns off is on the center exhaust ports on a 'D' port head. I have not found anything that stays on the center ports unless you don't drive the car. I have asked many engine builder and paint shops about this as well. Bill Hirsh burns off after time as well. This is the first round port head I've done, so we'll see if there is a difference in paint burning on the center ports. I add a little hardener to the mix for the last coat to make it extra chip resistant, but it very chip resistant without the hardener. the high build primer is a Nason (Dupont) product. I don't have any experience w/ PPG as I have always used Dupont. Once you get all the additives for one company, its can be rather expensive to switch to another brand. Hope this helps you out.

[johnta1]

The dark blue is probably for the oil pressure switch.

The other one may be the downshift switch

[superdutybob]

I agree with johnta1 about the blue one going to the oil pressure sending unit. The other should go to the switch that is in the cover of your BW ST10 transmission. It controls vacuum advance until high gear. Should be a single black wire with an orange stripe with a spade type connector.

Hope this helps.