Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6,
Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs!

          
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:55 PM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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I thought I would post some of the mock up pictures.

Dipstick - had to grind a little on the bracket to clear the headers


Radiator - Top plate is from a 69 Chevelle (Not a Bolt in part)





Problem - I don't think there is enough clearance. I will need to install my Delphi 600 box and new shaft to tell for sure.



Shot showing the AC bracket. Compressor should arrive soon.


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Old 05-15-2009, 12:06 AM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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Lots of little issues have slowed my project. I was unable to get transmission cooler lines installed. There is not enough clearance for a 90 degree bend of hard line at the transmission. I had to remove transmission and install 90 degree fittings at the transmission; I also had a hard time bending lines to fit in the available space. I am routing the lines like a LT1 94-96 B-body. The lines run from the transmission along the bottom of the engine and have a short piece of rubber from the front of the engine to the radiator.

Another problem is the belt listed by Kwik for their AC relocation bracket is too short. I have ordered the next longest size but I think it may be too long. I may need to change the size of some of the pulleys to get this to work. B-Man take notice, I think you are using the same parts I am.

On a positive note I did reinstall the transmission/engine and measure the drive shaft. A local shop shortened my existing drive shaft for $30 (No balance). I am only intending to use the old driveshaft/rear-end until I order a new rear-end. I will probably order a Moser rear-end, although I have not fully decided. My plans are to work out the problems with swapping the engine/transmission then removing everything and do a full restoration including removing the body from the frame. The time frame for putting the car back together would probably be next winter at which point I will deal with selecting and installing a new rear-end/drive shaft. If any of you have comments or suggestions about the choice of a rear-end I am all ears. I have never had to pick a rear-end before. Among the B-body group, Denny's drive shafts were a popular choice, I assume their drive shafts would also be a good choice for an A-body.

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Old 05-17-2009, 01:02 AM
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b-man b-man is offline
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Default Rear end

The rear end I'm planning to go with is a '71 -'72 Buick/Olds A-body 8.5" corporate 10 bolt. This would be a direct bolt-in on your car as well, the rear U-joint is a little different than the one that came stock on our cars if I'm not mistaken.

These have the tapered axle bearings that are said to handle side loads better along with a true heavy-duty axle. They are 28-spline axles that are bolt-in style instead of C-clips like most GM 8.5" corporate 10-bolts. The factory posi units are fine as long as you're not drag racing the car with any kind of traction tire. These 8.5" rear ends are nearly as strong as a 12-bolt 8.875" rear and share the same pinion bearing.

I'll upgrade my 8.5" rear end to a new 30-spline Eaton posi unit and new Moser axles. Part of the reason being I need to change the bolt pattern on my axles to 5 on 120mm to match up with my BMW-spec aftermarket wheels, so new axles are the easiest way to accomplish that.

The stock GM intermediate pattern is 5 on 4.75" (5 on 120.65mm) so there's not a lot of difference between the two, but I want things done right. Upgrading the axles and posi unit isn't a bad idea no matter what, just more $$. This way I can beat on it and not worry as much.

Spend it only once and do it right whenever you can.

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Old 05-21-2009, 10:21 PM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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How much clearance should I have between the headers and the steering shaft? I only have about 3/16". I would think 1/4" would be the minimum. I would really hate to have something shift around and lock up the steering. That would make for a really bad day. I guess the best way to gain additional clearance would be to put a dent in the header tube with a press.


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Old 05-21-2009, 11:09 PM
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You have plenty of room. No need whatsoever to modify your header tube.

I have about 3/16" between my headers (H-O Racing Tri-Ys with 1-3/4" primary tubes) and the steering shaft on my '64 GTO. I tried to put the end of a 1/4" thick wooden yardstick between the shaft and the header tube and it wouldn't fit in there.

Exhaust heat will not adversely affect the steering shaft, the Ditzler 9000 black acrylic enamel on mine is still doing fine after 10 years in the staging lanes and 2 years on the street.

My GTO has stock rubber motor mounts and a chain to limit engine movememnt. Engine torque will make the engine move away from the steering shaft.

I'll be installing a new set of Energy Suspension poly motor mounts when I drop the LS3 in my '64 Tempest, they should do a good job of limiting engine movement all by themselves. Hopefully I'll have as much clearance as you do in that spot.


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Old 05-25-2009, 11:58 PM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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Project updates.

I finally got a belt to fit. The third attempt. This was a painful experience since the auto parts store in my area don't stock anything. They always say we can get it in a day, two at they most. So since I'm going to wait and then go get it when it comes in, I just order from Rockauto.com. Much cheaper (including shipping) and only a day longer, plus its waiting for me when I get home.



I put a slight dent in the header just to be safe. I really don't think the dent will affect flow very much. You can also see that the stock LS3 spark plug wire hits the header. This also occurs on one spot on the other side.



Here I'm starting to connect the ECM wires.



Fender problems. I though I would just need to weld a small patch at the bottom of the fender. After grinding across a very small rust bubble and then grinding alot more after finding filler, I find that most of the metal is missing and was replaced with filler. There was no visible problems from the back of the fender. The rust and repair was hidden by the brace. The fender must also be slight bent. The alighment above the picture is fair, but the fender sticks out about 3/4-1" at the bottom. If you align the bottom of the dender, the door to fender alignment in the middle is really bad and scrapes when opening the door.



And while I am looking at body problems, do all Pontiacs have this extra gap at the top of the door?


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