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#1
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Fiddling around with some vintage parts I located years ago. These are a set of NOS Pontiac Trans Am mudflaps.
![]() Lest you think I drilled holes in a brand new paint job, here is the method recommended by a friend in town who has a white, original paint 68 Shelby. He has similar white Ford mudflaps and has them held on when driving with these heavy duty Home Depot mini clamps. He's been running with this set up for a while now and hasn't lost a mudflap yet. I may paint the clamps black so they don't shine so much, but other than that they seem to hold the mudflaps in place quite firmly. ![]()
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#2
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#3
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To put it bluntly - you can have your own opinion no matter how wrong it is. I bet you think rock chips looks really great and original on a car. I personally don't care for them. The lower portion of these cars are a magnet for road damage, especially the rear fender flares. Tell me your magic secret for preventing rock chips and I'd be happy to consider it. These flaps are not permanent, that's why I used the clips, not screw holes.
I drive my cars. I don't trailer them around in $100K hermetically sealed transportation cocoons and then have white lab coated guys move them from one show to another, like some "collectors" do. Other than body work, I do all my own work. I've had a set of black plastic mudflaps on my 1-of-1 produced hemi '70 Charger R/T-SE for 23 years and no-one has complained yet. Hell, I even ran them on my 71 hemicuda ragtop when I had that car 25 years ago. Here's a couple shots of me beating the crap out of that 1-of-7 produced, ragtops at the Musclecar Nationals in 1986. Note the mudflaps: ![]() ![]() I remove the flaps at shows when I get there, I use them on the car when I drive it home. I'm not out to win any awards because, at the end of the day, I get to drive my car home again - that's my award. If you'd like, I'd be happy to end this entire thread here and not post anything further if it upsets anyone too much. Last edited by njsteve; 07-09-2009 at 07:12 AM. |
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#4
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I agree, the rear spats get peppered in short order if you drive the car, same with the front air dam. There's a few companies out there that sell very thin, clear adhesive sheets specifically to prevent this on high-end cars, and was thinking of trying one of those. Most are body-specific, though I'm sure I could either call them for a sheet or buy ones for another car that I know are large enough that I can trim. They even have been used on headlight covers, and don't discolor. I'm sure the 'sheen' will be slightly different, but it sure beats sitting there with a touch-up bottle dabbing for hours. 3M has one called ClearMask or Clear Bra, but I don't think the high-end people use it. The more tailored ones are all shooting for a patent....
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#5
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#6
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Steve,
Just an idea....if you pulled the rubber off those clamps and just cut down the handles, and maybe even the mouth sides of each clamp a bit they would be a lot smaller. Trim the rubber down and slip them back on. You could even sandblast and paint black like you said. Either way you could probably reduce the mass of each by about 50% and they would have just as much holding power. Might need a pair of pliers or really strong fingers to take them off without the leverage of the long arms, but.... |
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