[Geeto Tiger]

Wow Steve, this car is turning out beautifully! So whats the next car you plan to restore?

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by CaptCrunch

Beautiful car.......you've done an awesome job!...........as far as the rock chips, I've heard that adding the flex additive to the paint like you use on the nose will greatly reduce the tendency to chip........love that Hemi car story too.......

The flex additive will alter the shade of lighter colors. I had a 1969 Charger Daytona Hemi in Y2 yellow (the very light yellow), We added the flex agent to the nose since that thin metal nose cone is a rock magnet. The flex additive made the nose appear a shade or two off from the fenders' color. It was really noticeable. Lighter colors are much more prone to the color shift than darker ones.

As for putting the clear sheets on major body panels, that stuff is pretty much permanent once applied. I know the manufacturers say it comes off but I've seen it take the clear coat layer off the car along with the plastic sheeting when it was removed. That $100 worth of protective plastic ended up costing $6000 in damage, in one case that I remember seeing.

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Geeto Tiger

So whats the next car you plan to restore?

Probably my totally original 1975 Chevy Mystery Machine Van. Complete with "Keep On Truckin" mural and matching mudflaps and "Don't Come a Knockin' If This Van's a Rockin" bumper stickers and NOS "Arrive Stoned" front license plate. I just located an NOS chain link steering wheel and orange shag carpeting last week!

;-)

[eaglesan13]

Are you going to go with side pipes on that?

Originally Posted by njsteve

Probably my totally original 1975 Chevy Mystery Machine Van. Complete with "Keep On Truckin" mural and matching mudflaps and "Don't Come a Knockin' If This Van's a Rockin" bumper stickers and NOS "Arrive Stoned" front license plate. I just located an NOS chain link steering wheel and orange shag carpeting last week!

;-)

[njsteve]

The original Thrush pipes. Every party wagon had 'em!

[72Formula]

70RAIII, point taken.

I think we agree on the look. What we may not agree on is how we convey our opinion. That should have been my point to begin with, so I'll join you in putting this to rest with the hope that Steve continues to share as the car progresses. I know we agree on that!

[njsteve]

I located some funky little rams horn clips that were used on my dad's old 67 Vette's plexiglass mudflaps. I think they will work pretty well. Don't know if Ecklers still makes them. We bought the set I have now, about 25 years ago. Sold the Vette...kept the mudflaps.

[njsteve]

All the windows work and are adjusted, doors close nicely. Mirrors installed. I finally installed the exterior door handle linkage and lock hardware. Waiting on a new pair of long outside door handles before I install the interior door panels and finish the interior.

Pulled the car out today to work on the lights. Once I replaced all the bulbs, everything with the exception of the reverse lights worked.

The reverse lights took a little de-bugging. I found that if I jumped the two terminals, the lights worked. So that meant the switch had a glitch. Turned out that you have to adjust the switch on the base of the steering column by loosening the 2 mounting screws and sliding the switch to the left or right so the backdrive linkage activates it at the right spot. (The 72 used a reverse light switch on the steering column - no switch in the trans like some models). Works great now.

[aronhk_md]

Steve...there is a little hole in the neutral switch itself you can use to align it. I believe its done in neutral if I remember correctly, then you tighten it down. I used a small drill bit to hold it in place, but I imagine you can use a nail or anything else really. But I guess you can do it the old fashioned way of trial and error too...lol.

That whole neutral safety switch issue was the reason my car wouldnt turn over when I bought it. The contacts inside it had the original lube...which had hardened over time and actually prevented the contacts from touching. Took it apart, cleaned it, relubed with a non-conducting lube, and the car turned over...

Oh....and I actually liked the home depot clips better. They seem like they would be easier to put on and remove. Also, those clips you just showed look like they could scratch the inside of your quarter panel.....and I'm sure you have either paint in there and maybe a protectant coating. Seems to me even small scratches in an invisible area like that would be an invite for our least favorite substance...rust. I know the car basically lives indoors now, but I cringe at the idea of even small scratches in an otherwise protected surface.

[Norwood]

Originally Posted by njsteve

The reverse lights took a little de-bugging. I found that if I jumped the two terminals, the lights worked. So that meant the switch had a glitch. Turned out that you have to adjust the switch on the base of the steering column by loosening the 2 mounting screws and sliding the switch to the left or right so the backdrive linkage activates it at the right spot. (The 72 used a reverse light switch on the steering column - no switch in the trans like some models). Works great now.

Steve you are an insperation......Now I have to go and troubleshoot my backup lites.

[njsteve]

The reverse light switch is a separate electrical switch from the neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch is on the pedal assembly and the reverse light switch is on top of the base of the column with one green and one pink/black striped wire connected to it.

Fortunately that little 2-pronged switch is the only electric switch present in the 4-speed backup light system. (No trans switch, no shifter switch.) If it isn't allowing the electricity to flow, there's no lights. I did take it off and hose it out with Brake-Clean and then used some white lube and WD40 to make it work smoothly again.

[aronhk_md]

Ahhh! Thank you Steve. You are right as usual. I was assuming the lights operated off the neutral saftey switch.

[njsteve]

The new 6-1/4" outside door handles arrived today so I could finally install them and then finish up the interior. I think I'm done with the inside now. I did hook up all the front bulbs and headlights the other day. Once I hooked up a jumper wire as a ground for the rubber insulated radiator support, everything worked.

[aronhk_md]

I'm just picturing Tazzz's new honeycomb wheels on Steve's TA...that would be something to see.

[lucyblu71ta]

your progress motivates me! this thread is amazing!!!

[njsteve]

I had the glass installer come over today. I had been waiting for the bodyman to finish the trunk filler panel but ended up using an old one I had in the garage so we could get the glass finally finished. Since the installer was a bit more careful with the urethane window sealer than the factory was, none got onto the intermediate panel flange. That was one of the original problems in getting these panels out, the assembly line guys allowed the excess sealer to glue the intermediate panels in place. You risked cracking the rear window getting them out.





Got the windshield installed along with the moldings, cowl seal and wiper arms. The wipers actually work and they even park when you turn then off! Even the radio works, now that the windshield antenna is hooked up.





The trunk is pretty much finished. I reinstalled the original date-coded trunk mat that came out of the car. It's not the prettiest thing but it's the original one. Those dark marks are actually rub marks where the pattern was rubbed off. They're not dirt/grease. I tried all sorts of cleaners but anything with a solvent tends to remove the original pattern, so I'll just keep it as is.

[cliffhanger]

interior looks amazing! same goes for the glass, is that all new?

ps. not to nitpick, but I think that 'worn' trunk mat is going to become a thorn in your eye...everything is (/looks) new, it might be the original one, and that is fantastic, but I think it looks a bit out of place as everything else looks so new and shiny....

atleast in a photo it is very visible....

all else is breathtaking

[165th]

Originally Posted by njsteve

The reverse light switch is a separate electrical switch from the neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch is on the pedal assembly and the reverse light switch is on top of the base of the column with one green and one pink/black striped wire connected to it.

Fortunately that little 2-pronged switch is the only electric switch present in the 4-speed backup light system. (No trans switch, no shifter switch.) If it isn't allowing the electricity to flow, there's no lights. I did take it off and hose it out with Brake-Clean and then used some white lube and WD40 to make it work smoothly again.

Steve, the interior does look stunning, as does the glass. The glass compliments the restoration.

Can you post a pic of the reverse light switch and the neutral safety switch? Thanks!

[njsteve]

The side and rear glass is the original LOF glass it was born with. The windshield is a more recent LOF piece, but it was just about perfect so I didn't feel like spending a bunch of $$$ for just some tiny little date code that its nearly invisible.

The problem with the trunk mats available today is that they are no where near accurate. They are made out of thin vinyl, not the original embossed 1/8" thick rubber. When someone starts making the correct version, then I'll probably swap it out. (Also, the flash tends to accentuate the flaws. It looks better in person).

[BobC]

The Parts Place ebay website has been selling NOS trunk mats on and off for months. Don't know if they have any left, he sure had a stash though! I bought one for my '71 TA. They are way better than the crappy repops. You're lucky to have your original that's still serviceable, mine was MIA.