[66Mutt]

The installation notes with my tranny talked about the temp that you read is usually in the pan. The temp in the Torque converter is higher than the temp in the pan. They stressed keeping it as cool as possible. My transmission was running about 220 deg before I ran the largest B&M cooler I could fit in the grill. I have not seen it go above 165 deg now on the 100 deg days.
Doug

[b-man]

Originally Posted by 71firebird400

B-Man, I've heard that you can "overcool" a transmission if you don't allow it to reach sufficient temperature. I was a bit concerned about this with my current setup, have you heard anything about this, or is it a myth?

Thanks

Mark,

Out here in the So Cal desert I don't think running too cool is a big concern, but you do want to get some heat in the fluid I agree. Keeping these transmissions cool is the key to long life from what I've heard. My 3600 converter is a little more than 9.5" in diameter so it will run tend to run hot when it's not locked up. Blocking off the slot in the bumper is always an option in cooler weather if need be.

Originally Posted by 66Mutt

The installation notes with my tranny talked about the temp that you read is usually in the pan. The temp in the Torque converter is higher than the temp in the pan. They stressed keeping it as cool as possible. My transmission was running about 220 deg before I ran the largest B&M cooler I could fit in the grill. I have not seen it go above 165 deg now on the 100 deg days.
Doug

Doug,

I'm hoping that these two coolers will keep up with the demand for cooling when I'm hammering this car through a long canyon run, I think I have it covered. Taking my fluid temp reading just before it heads back to the pan should be pretty close to taking a reading at the pan, this was a convenient way to package the sender and keep added clutter away fron the trans pan area. I do take the reading at the pan on my '64 GTO TH400 though.
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I made some more progress on the twin-trans cooler installation today.

I put the front bumper back on and adjusted it as closely as I could to where it will be on the finished car. After checking the clearance between the coolers and the bumper I found they needed to be shifted upward by one inch. This puts the top of the cooler fins right at the top of bumper slot, a little bit more ideal for catching cooling air and adding some much needed clearance at the bottom of the coolers to the bumper.

I put the driver's side grille in to check for clearance too. The brass fittings and tubing are hidden from view in the grille area.



With the bumper removed again and the various component clearances confirmed it was time to bend up some 3/8" steel hard lines.



There was a small 'window' of space for both of the cooler lines to pass through the core support at the bottom corner.



Both lines terminate a few inches past the core support, the 3/8" inverted flare unions were staggered to make it a little easier to swing a line wrench on them. I bent the lines so as to leave access to the hole in the frame for the front bumper bolt.



I still need to make up the bottom support brackets, but I did manage to get all of the plumbing finished on the front end.

Hope everyone had a great Labor Day weekend!