[PontGuy]

I can relate to old and senile, I turned 50 today. Just got back into all of this after a 10+ year layoff and still remembering stuff myself, and also finding that things have changed a bit during the past decade ot two!

If Cliff's carb didn't solve the problem then I doubt the real issue is running rich. But it sounds like you still have the high compression heads which is something that you should think about addressing. Just about everyone has reduced CR to around 9.5:1 or so in order run today's junk gas. Maybe that's the underlying cause? If so reducing the cam duration is probably not going to improve the situation- though I think you are right about it improving drivability.

I have a high lift version of the 068 style cam in my new engine, and currently installing the RA manifolds and 2-1/2" X-pipe exhaust. So understand your thinking.

Walt

[madtexan]

Originally Posted by PontGuy

I can relate to old and senile, I turned 50 today.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WALT!!!

I also turned 50 this year.

So could the smell be caused by the valves not being adjusted right? It doesn't ping at all when I get on it with 93 Octane Citgo gas. It also doesn't have any color to the exhaust. It is clean looking. I put fuel stabilizer (red stuff) into the gas to stabilize it since it hasn't been started much..... anything related to that?

Would doing a compression test tell me something useful?

My vacuum level is good enough to hold my hideaways shut at idle and the idle isn't that rough either.

Mike

[Bet Winner]

Originally Posted by madtexan

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WALT!!!

I also turned 50 this year.

So could the smell be caused by the valves not being adjusted right? It doesn't ping at all when I get on it with 93 Octane Citgo gas. It also doesn't have any color to the exhaust. It is clean looking. I put fuel stabilizer (red stuff) into the gas to stabilize it since it hasn't been started much..... anything related to that?

Would doing a compression test tell me something useful?

My vacuum level is good enough to hold my hideaways shut at idle and the idle isn't that rough either.

Mike

I'm not sure about the smell--maybe 40 year old exhaust pipes?--probably not. (My 1968 400 Firebird has its original exhaust pipes--they stink in the garage after driving the car. And Little Wife does not really love it.)

But the idle not being very rough might lead me away from the cam.

A compression test is usually smart. If stock valve train, I believe the nut is just torqued to 20 foot pounds with the cam on its base circle on that valve. Don't overtorque. Adjust the carb at idle too, check the timing. It should probably ping if you get on it with stock compression. Some MaxLead 2000 is what I like.

Oh, I turned 50 in September.

[madtexan]

OK We got something going here.... The 50 yr old club!

I know the exhaust pipes are not original but they are at least 25 yrs old. I never heard that they can cause a smell though. It happens as soon as the car is started. Smell stays in the garage for days.

I do remember when I put the Rhodes lifters in I had to put a stainless washer under each of the rocker arm nuts. I did that because when I tightened them without the washer the nut would bottom out on the stud (reach the ends of the threads) and not apply any pressure to the rocker arms. They were loose without and I thought they would make noise or come off. Could the heads have the wrong studs in them or wrong push rods or something?

[Bet Winner]

Originally Posted by madtexan

OK We got something going here.... The 50 yr old club!

I know the exhaust pipes are not original but they are at least 25 yrs old. I never heard that they can cause a smell though. It happens as soon as the car is started. Smell stays in the garage for days.

I do remember when I put the Rhodes lifters in I had to put a stainless washer under each of the rocker arm nuts. I did that because when I tightened them without the washer the nut would bottom out on the stud (reach the ends of the threads) and not apply any pressure to the rocker arms. They were loose without and I thought they would make noise or come off. Could the heads have the wrong studs in them or wrong push rods or something?

Rhodes lifters clatter from what I hear. If you are holding the valve off of its seat slightly with this washer, it might very well cause this and might burn valves. A local mechanic that worked on old Pontiacs would really help. I'm afraid to say what to do without seeing it, but this might be the problem.

[madtexan]

Originally Posted by Bet Winner

If you are holding the valve off of its seat slightly with this washer, it might very well cause this and might burn valves.

The washer is under the nut.... on top of the rocker arm. I think it just took up the slack. If I didn't have them in there, the rocker arms would have been really loose. It was almost like the studs were too long.

From what I can remember... 20 yrs ago now..... The studs had a shoulder (no thread at the bottom) that didn't allow the nuts to come down far enough to put any pressure on the rocker arms. My solution was to try the nuts. This was before the internet and this great forum for info.... I improvised! Maybe the Rhosed lifters came with locking nut or something too.

[madtexan]

I think we might be getting to the cause of the issues.

It was suggested earlier up in this thread to reduce the compression. Would that mean a head rebuild with getting port work done to the heads? This would also solve the mystery of needing these washers. I know the heads do not have hardened seat inserts as well.

What would be a reasonable price range to have this work done to the heads?

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by madtexan

The washer is under the nut.... on top of the rocker arm. I think it just took up the slack. If I didn't have them in there, the rocker arms would have been really loose. It was almost like the studs were too long.

From what I can remember... 20 yrs ago now..... The studs had a shoulder (no thread at the bottom) that didn't allow the nuts to come down far enough to put any pressure on the rocker arms. My solution was to try the nuts. This was before the internet and this great forum for info.... I improvised! Maybe the Rhosed lifters came with locking nut or something too.

Any chance you still have the original stock "bottleneck" rocker studs on there?.... are you familiar with how all that works? If you are trying to run an adjustable valve train with stock studs it won't work. You need to change over to bb chevy studs.. these provide the full range of adjustment you need for that cam.