[baron_]

Nice.
I like the shifter significantly more after hearing what it is. =]


8lbs, stock parts, pistons down in the hole, shifting at 5,000?
Seems like you'd be fine. You're limiting yourself as you should.
I started with a stock '74 400 and did what you did...just threw it together and was reasonable with it. It lived until i went to about 15lbs of boost (then = grenade). All stock with 100k+ miles and already had low oil pressure, though

Current motor is a mostly stock 389 and holds up well to 12lbs


That's still a lot of lift, but I guess you've got nothing to lose. I was more concerned about it being reasonably streetable in a 455....i'm sure it'll make quite a bit of power


the ebay blowoff valves work very well
50 or more mm blowoff valves new, cheap. Less than $100 usually
That's what I and a lot of other cheapasses use
Just don't trust one of the ebay cheap wastegates


the TKO is great. A little hard to shift into third sometimes, but i think that's more because I'm used to a muncie. I hear these things commonly hold up to more than their 600 torque rating. I love not having to ever adjust linkage!


That a 'carb shop' carb? Works well for you?
From what I've seen, the carb is the most important asset to any combination....running fat enough can often save you (beside maybe the cam)

[aronhk_md]

From my inexpert position I'd have to agree with Baron........cam is going to be very important to your setup, and will probably determine whether the car is a dog. Also, making sure your pushrods clear and valve/piston clearance with that cam and whatever rockers you are planning...

Keep in mind, there may be someone on this board with a used cam that could be purchased reasonably, and you could sell the other to recoup the money. If that cam was designed to begin making power at 3500-4000 rpm, and you are planning to shift at 5000........well, it could be a real dog.

If you are going to use the 4x heads you are probably ok unless you want to run a lot of boost. Especially since you have an intercooler. Just make sure your ignition timing is set and operating properly to pull out timing as boost increases.

As for the rest of your setup.......the later year 455's are not as strong as the early year blocks, but I'm sure you've read that already. It is what it is. If I were you I'd spend the most time and a few dollars in your building prep. Make sure your tolerances are correct and everything is clean and goes together correctly as you assemble it.

Hey, I really like the brackets you made! Nice job installing the procharger

[spink7124]

Baron,
Thanks for the recommendations for the blow off valve. Yes it is a Carb Shop carb. So far, so good, I pretty much just bolted it on and went. From reading the plugs it kept things nice and fat so I rolled with it.

The more I think about it, the more I get unsure about using this cam. I am sure that it will make great power, but like already stated all that power might be at 7000 rpm!

Also, the more I read about changing valve springs, the more I realized this cam might cause me a lot of headache- even if I run a spring like the Crower 68404-16 I am probably going to have retainer to valve seal interference, and changing all that stuff around just to get my cam to work is gonna get expensive. I guess the only way to tell is going to be to start measuring things.

If that cam is a dog changing it in the car is gonna be a decent amount of work as well; the front timing cover is half of the motor mount.

What do you guys think about me using a Torker for an Intake? I've had recommendations that a single plain was the way to go, but those recommendations were when I was planning on running a lot more boost. The other option I have is a performer, but to me that seems like not quite enough intake at this level.

Thanks again,
James