[GRUMPASTOY]

The way I see it, a father and son got in the garage, used the parts and resources they had available and cranked out a quick little grocery-getter... Doesn't matter to me what parts they coulda, woulda, shoulda used, they had the fun and heart-ache of the experience... Props to both for a good job

Build it to abuse it

[MikesOldMan]

Originally Posted by grandville455

What exactly is the convertor ... Is it the conti 4200? what are the codes on it? Inquiry minds want to know

We really don't know what the converter is. Cliff co-ordinated all that for us with all the info on the car. It seems to stall, from what my son is telling me at about 2800/2900 and I don't know what it's flashing to. We only have six or eight passes so far, so can post more when we get more runs in. I don't do secrets, lol. Will gladly tell you just what is in the car. BTW, that car of yours is out of sight, awesome, fantastic etc! You have gotten a super combo there with tons of character, pun intended, lol. I love it when you don't do things like everyone else does!

[grandville455]

Thanks Mikesoldman!! Ok cliff come clean! ... what stall is it? lol

[Mikes455Wagon]

Originally Posted by grandville455

Thanks Mikesoldman!! Ok cliff come clean! ... what stall is it? lol

I got a converter in a box that said continental on it with no paper work so I personally didn't even know what to expect but I am more than satisfied with what it does. The last thing I told Cliff when I ordered it was that I wanted the front tires in the air if at all possible which was fulfilled fully. When I get home I can give the number off the side the box but past that I have no clue.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Mikes455Wagon

I got a converter in a box that said continental on it with no paper work so I personally didn't even know what to expect but I am more than satisfied with what it does. The last thing I told Cliff when I ordered it was that I wanted the front tires in the air if at all possible which was fulfilled fully. When I get home I can give the number off the side the box but past that I have no clue.

That will work cause they put their code on the conv on the outside of the box, Curious to what u have thanks!

[Mikes455Wagon]

I had mom go to the garage and find what was written on the side of the box and it is as follows....

10" 400 P-1P/S (the S may be a 5 not too sure, can't read the hand writing)

[Cliff R]

The converter is a custom 10" unit, it is simply built on the same "chassis" as the popular 3200 stall "Jim Hand" version.

Due to the head/cam/compression combo, vehicle weight, full race applications, etc, it is considerably "looser" than most of the 10" units we send out.

It is not possible to compute an exact stall speed when you build a converter, but we targeted around 3800rpm's (nearly as I can remember) for this application.

Obviously, didn't miss the mark to far a the 60' times are excellent for the combination of parts, as is the ET and MPH.....Cliff

[grandville455]

That seems looser than a 3800 cliff? to be able bring it up to 2800 on the brake. Mine doesn't want to go much past 2000 from what i seen at the track and it is a 3500 now... Either way i like it.. just wonder how streetable this particular conv is that he has? Mine is right around 28-3000 at 65 mph cruising

[Mikes455Wagon]

I think you could probably survive on the street with this converter ok. It is a little loose though. The only times I have really personally noticed it was driving it on the car trailer and in reverse. The reverse thing is something I have seen in every converter that was higher than a stock stall speed though. Its not "loose" like some cars you hear at shows and cruise nights that sound like you rev them to 4000 then the car suddenly jumps forward. If I take my foot off of the brake it moves forward with little to no effort. All in all I have to say Im not sure if it could really get any better than 1.59 for my combination but I have some tuning to do as this was the first night out on the car and I will let you know if it improves. Some other food for thought is my car is about 1100 lbs lighter than yours Darby, which takes way less inertia to get moving. The flip side of that is your making way more power than I am (well if I am making as much power as your motor, dad has built me a freak of nature) so it might handle the looser one ok.

[tc]

I also have the 10" 400 P1 P/S converter. In my 3900 lbs car, 428 ( low 12's ), stalls to 3400 rpm on the highway. Track is 100 or so more rpm for flash. Drives superb on the street, just a little gas and it goes.

[Mikes455Wagon]

What kind of 60' times TC and also are you running slicks, drag radials, etc....?

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by tc

I also have the 10" 400 P1 P/S converter. In my 3900 lbs car, 428 ( low 12's ), stalls to 3400 rpm on the highway. Track is 100 or so more rpm for flash. Drives superb on the street, just a little gas and it goes.

Tom
Can u foot brake yours to 2800 too Like Mike?

[Cliff R]

Lots of variables with the "foot-braking" thing.

If you want to know what your converter will do, unhook the downshift solenoid (TH400), or unhook the kick-down cable (TH350). Roll along about 25-30mph in high gear, let off the throttle and coast, then matt the pedal and watch the tach. This will show the full potential of the converter provided the tires don't slip.

Mine goes to right at 3500rpm's for this test, it is the standard "Jim Hand" unit.

The next test one can do is to converter slippage by recording the engine RPM's in high gear at the finish line.

Mine goes thru right at 5100rpm's, around 119-120mph for most runs.

If you compute the RPM's with zero slippage by using the following formula (assumes 1 to 1 high gear ratio):

GEAR RATIO X MPH X 336 divided by TIRE DIAMETER

Pluggin in 3.42 X 120 X 336 divided by 28, we come up with 4924rpm's. My converter shows just a tad over 150rpm's slippage on the top end of the track, or once fully coupled at full power.

It is actually a bit less, as the tires don't measure 28", closer to 27", but they may grow a bit on the actual run.

In any case, the converter is coupled very well, considering the stall speed we see on the starting line.

Most similiar converters I've tested show 300-600rpms slippage doing the same thing, some have been as high as 1000rpms....YIKES!!!......Cliff

[grandville455]

Did that cliff mine flashes to 35-3600 everytime... I may try to leave a little lower one more time and see if the car 60 fts better, previous test showed it didn't like leaving at 1500 like old motor last year... But I will try one more time first time trial and see what happens... If my conv was loosened even 300 more rpms i would gain alot of hp and torque at launch looking at my dyno sheet! It is flashing right where it did before i sent it back to chris to be loosened for that 3800 target!.. can't believe that it lost that much power down low to flash the same?... I Have read SOMETIMES when u send the conv to be loosened it ends up being tighter than before on occasion! I really think that is what happened with mine! This motor is making more power everywhere and still only flashing there?

[Cliff R]

Darby, at some point try your RPM intake and see if it helps "smack" the converter a bit harder?

I would have went to the 4200rpm version for your new engine w/single plane intake, based on the vehicle weight, etc. The quicker you can get that much weight moving, the quicker it will ET, and with parts that make lots of upper mid-range and top end power, a strong finish to compliment the hard launch......Cliff

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

Darby, at some point try your RPM intake and see if it helps "smack" the converter a bit harder?

I would have went to the 4200rpm version for your new engine w/single plane intake, based on the vehicle weight, etc. The quicker you can get that much weight moving, the quicker it will ET, and with parts that make lots of upper mid-range and top end power, a strong finish to compliment the hard launch......Cliff

Cliff.. I sold that last fall ,lol... I thought about the 4200 ,but when i and chris talked my motor was not blown and he thought 4200 might be too loose for driving around for my car that is why we decided to go to 3800, but it isn't quite flashing that high ... I think cause after i shift and it is only 4500 on the drop any intake that has a strong mid range and top end pull will be the best, Yes Another intake may help the bottom ,but basically it will only help it possibly launch better, but I doubt it will pull as hard as a single plane in the mid and upper RPMS.like my Torker 2 does now. I think My best bet is a tad looser conv... If anyone HAS A 4200 I may give it a try

[tc]

Mike and Mr Champion...60 ft's are 1.70-1.73. DOT American Racer tires. I have footbraked to 2800 rpm's before, but lately I have been trying to hold at 1500. This year I am going to try at idle, one less thing to do as my tach is mounted on the steering column. The new trouble I have is the car is slow to get moving. If I wait till the last yellow lights, reactions times are .15's.

[roadrage david]

Not bad for a XE cam that usualy falls flat on its face at 4900, and is trown douwn the hill bij some!!!. my frind did a couple of 1/4 last weekend with a kaufman parts build up 461 stroker torker1 maifold Crower 60919 cam electrick fuel injection best he could do was a 12.7!!

[Cliff R]

Torker I intake and fuel injection??? Seriously Dave, last time I back to back dyno'd a Torker I intake it was down over 50 hp from my "stock" iron intake. I've watched guys laptop those fuel injections systems for hours on the dyno and never could make the power I'd get from a $5 recalibrated Q-jet on the very first pull!

What genius came up with that combination of parts?

BTW, did you make a couple passes with your car at the track outing? I can't wait to see the low 11 second timeslips over 120 mph from the XE284 camshaft to back up the dyno report(s)......LOL......Cliff

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by tc

Mike and Mr Champion...60 ft's are 1.70-1.73. DOT American Racer tires. I have footbraked to 2800 rpm's before, but lately I have been trying to hold at 1500. This year I am going to try at idle, one less thing to do as my tach is mounted on the steering column. The new trouble I have is the car is slow to get moving. If I wait till the last yellow lights, reactions times are .15's.

Tom
So your conv is fairly loose too then to be able to hold to 2800.Ttried mine yesterday in the parking lot and it wanted to push the car at 22 and did at 2400... How does it drive on street? When u mean slow to get moving.. u mean when only stalling it to 1500 then leaving compared to 2800?...