[Kevin]

I have a '73 354 in a car that I bought, I think it was about 7 years ago. I bought it for the 5 matching rally 2's. I asked the guy if he was interested in selling the wheels, he said, "I'll sell you the whole thing for 50 bucks." So, I bought the whole thing. I drove it home, it was only about 5 miles away, and parked it out back where it has been sitting ever since. It seemed to run fine on the short trip I drove it.

Anyway, its time to get it out of here. I pulled it out from under the trees and want to see if I can fire it up. Its a mess under the hood, at least a mess to my eyes. A crazy amount of vacuum lines running everywhere most of which I'm sure are dry rotted, leaky and need to be replaced. Other than replacing the vacuum lines, fuel lines, cap, rotor, plug wires and changing the fluids and filters, is there anything else I should be looking out for, that I'm possibly not thinking of, before I fire it up?

[F ROCK]

fire that jammy up! i bet it runs. might have 6x4 heads? if you're offing it i'd save the dist, intake, heads, timing cover, valley pan, ect.. i just had to buy all that stuff.

[Kevin]

Its got 46's and a 2 bbl carb. If it does run once I get everything cleaned up I bet she will be putting out about a wopping 120 ponies! haha

[Kevin]

I changed the oil and the filter. The old oiled looked good and under the valve covers the heads were nice and clean, no sludge. I checked the coolant and it seemed fine as well so I let it be.

The carb gaskets leaked and the engine turned over very slowly. I'm not sure why it turned over slowly. I'm thinking its either the battery cables or the starter itself. I'm going to change the cables and then the starter if needed. Since the old 2bbl had lived its last I decided to just switch the manifold and carb to an old T2 and 650 cfm 4160 I had on the shelf. Thats when I discovered I need different intake gaskets than the ones I had on hand. The new gaskets should be here soon.

If this thing checks out with a clean bill of health could I install a Summit 2800 without any problems, or would it need to be converted to screw in studs for that?

[Donovan]

I ran a 2800 with stock springs and pushrods, press in studs and stamped stock style 1.65 rockers without issue. You only would have to worry about unknown issues with parts condition.

no need for screw in studs unless you get stiffer springs

[HWYSTR455]

What body is it? Miles?

If it's an old battery, check and make sure it has water.

Gas sitting in the carb, lines, and tank may be an issue, could run a hose into a can for start up purposes if you want.

Water in the radiator, check for leaks. Make sure rodents didn't eat any wires. I think you're good, fire it up.

Why do you want to change tha cam?

.

[bnorris_74]

46 Heads from 73-74' have screw in studs.

[just501]

I have a 73 350 with 46 heads, dual exhaust (logs), and 4bbl e-carb. I used the edelbrock marketed version of the 2800. The cam swap netted me 10HP at the wheels with no change in peak torque, but moved the torque and HP peak up about 400 rpm. Lost a bit of torque below 3200 rpm.

Hope this helps.

[PONTIAC LARRY]

screw in studs was a mid year 1973 change. early 73 350 #46's do have pressed studs.

please change to a performer from the T2 later if it turns out be a nice engine..it will be alot better down low..

[Overkillphil]

Those 350's are tough engines. I understand your reasons for the intake swap (convenience), but if you're planning to put that engine on the street I'd put a dual plane on it.

[A.W.Dille]

I agree with Phil (as usual) as I have a 72 350 I just bought, going to use the stock iron intake and Q-jet off my 73 400 on it. The Summit cam may be a good choice but haven't had any experience with it so I can't say, others on here have used it so hopefully they'll chime in.

[Kevin]

Thanks for the input everyone!

The T2 is just because its easy to do right now. I won't run the T2 on the little 350. If I do ever end up running it I will probably slap on a iron intake and a q-jet. But for the sake of time right now I'm going with the T2 and a 650 Holley just to see how the engine runs.

Just501, how much power did you get out of your 350?

After playing around on desktop dyno I realized without increasing the compression a cam swap isn't of much use on this engine. Now with a set of small chamber heads, 68-72 cc, the cam swap would yeild more power. In stock form (7.6:1, 2bbl, stock manifolds) desktop dyno shows peak power of 209 hp @ 4000 and 299 ftlbs @ 3000. A cam swap alone to the 2800 shows a increase of just 6 hp and 15 ftlbs. Just swap the 2bbl(with stock cam) for a 750 cfm 4bbl and it shows an increase of 18 hp and 8 ft lbs. Headers(everything else stock) alone show an increase of 43 hp and 34 ftlbs, moving both peaks up about 500 RPM. Headers and 750 cfm 4bbl together it shows an increase of 61 hp and 47 ftlbs. It would probably be fun to drive at that power level, if that reflects reality. I'm not planning on doing this, I was just having a little fun with desktop dyno.

[PONTIAC LARRY]

I could hook you up with some '69 #46 heads cheap....good on a 350... bump it up from 7.6 to about 9:1...

[just501]

Kevin,
With the 4bbl (not tuned, dipped to 11.5 afr on dyno) and 2" duals, the dyno showed 196rwhp 274rwtq. After cam swap and head swap to small valve 16's shaved to 68cc (9.9:1scr), carb still not tuned, the dyno showed 248rwhp 308rwtq. Have since added longbranch manifolds, 2.5 x-pipe duals and will be going with bigger cam when time permits.

[Me Notyou]

Yeah, what body is it in?

[72blackbird]

Kevin,
You play with desktop dyno- I'm doing it for real- lol.

I'm putting together a 350P w/ ported no.13's, Crower 60242 or 60243, 1.65 roller rockers, Holley 750 v/s on a performer, PPR 5140 Tomahawk rods, hooker comps, 2 1/2" duals. This build is an overhaul since the stock pistons are good, there's no ridge or taper in the bores, but 5140 rods are going in and the rotating assembly will be balanced.

Geno

[INJUNTOM]

Originally Posted by 72blackbird

I'm putting together a 350P w/ ported no.13's, Geno

Have you scoped out the head gasket situation? Which one are yopu going to use?

I'm wanting to run a set of #670 heads on a '73 350 block, but noticed that a 350 head gasket would have a little of the fire ring of the head gasket hanging into the chamber on the #670 heads even though they are closed chamber.

Laying a 400 head gasket on the 350 blocks shows quite a gap around the top of the cylinder.

Maybe a 389 gasket would be the trick? Maybe the gap at the top of the cylinder will not be consequential...

[Kevin]

Its from a '73 Lemans. I checked last night, the heads do have screw in studs. I also pulled one of the original gaskets off the intake. The port above the exhaust crossover was apparently left half uncovered at the factory.

just501, the desktop's numbers are actually close to your real dyno numbers. Your going to have a real nice combo when your done.

72blackbird, that sounds like a nice combo too. How much power do you expect from it?

It seems like the 350's would make a real nice little engine for cruising around without the gas bill of a 455.

[72blackbird]

Injuntom,
Ace Brewer at PPR has the correct 350P head gaskets- call him and he'll set you up.

Kevin- I had these heads on a 400 w/ a Crane 284H (284 adv. dur.,228 dur. @ .050, .480") and my Bird ran low, low 13's- I think on a 350P and Crower 60243 it should be able to manage at least mid 13's and around 350-360 hp.

Geno

[INJUNTOM]

Originally Posted by 72blackbird

Injuntom,
Ace Brewer at PPR has the correct 350P head gaskets- call him and he'll set you up.

Geno

Just 350P gaskets or something special meant to put the bigger chamber heads on a 350?