[Sirrotica]

As has been said the cause is not always obvious. RTV on the splines as Mike Nixon suggested. I usually don't put any sealer on the outside of the seal as the coating the manufacturer put on the seals fine against the smooth cast iron. That should be all that is needed to finish the job. Just refill and check the results.

[robz]

OK..Thanx Brad...

[robz]

Well all done...had a small issue as after completing everything and doing a test run, came back and no leak. While putting my tools away I noticed I forgot to put back the shield on the companion flange...ARGHHH! Took a little break and back to work..Removed the companion flange out again (while having car tilted back as much as possible, but still lost a bit of oil...added back some).

A couple of questions:

1)Do you think the RTV I put on spline is pretty much useless after I removed and put it back as I couldn't clean shaft again due to oil running out so I just put it back with whatever was there.

2) When I came to tighten nut (both times) it came close but never at the mark I made, and I did use impact and it wouldn't move more..is that a problem? I didn't want to force it more and it was straight when I put it on.

3) I didn't add more posi additive but while driving never heard any sounds from diff. Noticed however that the lube I bought said for Limited slip..could it have the additive already? If there isn't enough additive is it bad for posi or just makes noise?

Thanx in advance...

[2002Z4CSS]

Originally Posted by robz

Well all done...had a small issue as after completing everything and doing a test run, came back and no leak. While putting my tools away I noticed I forgot to put back the shield on the companion flange...ARGHHH! Took a little break and back to work..Removed the companion flange out again (while having car tilted back as much as possible, but still lost a bit of oil...added back some).

A couple of questions:

1)Do you think the RTV I put on spline is pretty much useless after I removed and put it back as I couldn't clean shaft again due to oil running out so I just put it back with whatever was there.

2) When I came to tighten nut (both times) it came close but never at the mark I made, and I did use impact and it wouldn't move more..is that a problem? I didn't want to force it more and it was straight when I put it on.

3) I didn't add more posi additive but while driving never heard any sounds from diff. Noticed however that the lube I bought said for Limited slip..could it have the additive already? If there isn't enough additive is it bad for posi or just makes noise?

Thanx in advance...

RTV on the splines did nothing unless for some strange reason fluid was comming from there but I had never seen that ever.
If the pinionnut is very close to where it originally was, maybe a tiny bit tighter it should be ok. Too loose is not good due to a crush sleeve that sets the preload when tightened.

The fluid you got probably has the additive in it.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by 2002Z4CSS

RTV on the splines did nothing unless for some strange reason fluid was comming from there but I had never seen that ever.
If the pinionnut is very close to where it originally was, maybe a tiny bit tighter it should be ok. Too loose is not good due to a crush sleeve that sets the preload when tightened.

The fluid you got probably has the additive in it.

Oil does leak down the splines sometimes, as Mike Nixon and I both recommended the RTV on the splines to combats this. It leaks down the splines and comes out behind the nut and washer on the end of the pinion shaft. The factory uses something else on them like a pipe dope so it is a real issue.

However in this case since it's already back together I'd just wait and see if it's going to be a problem. They don't all leak it's more a precautionary item that only takes a minute to do so no reason not to do it while it's disassembled.

[robz]

Thanx Guys...I have tested it already after I fixed my mistake of forgetting shield...Took her out and drove her around then did a few burnouts and all sounds good...brought her home and had a bit of oil, hopefully leftover from when I removed companion seal the second time...I will drive around again and keep an eye on it closely...

[LPete]

Originally Posted by robz

2) When I came to tighten nut (both times) it came close but never at the mark I made, and I did use impact and it wouldn't move more..is that a problem? I didn't want to force it more and it was straight when I put it on.

I don't know what to think about this. Just so you know, it takes a lot of torque to compress the crush sleeve -- I'd guess 150 - 200 ft. lbs. or more. I'd try and feel for any play in the pinion bearings -- probably easiest to feel by trying to shake the companion flange side to side, perpendicular to the axis of the pinion. If you don't feel play it's probably OK, but I've never seen one where the nut wasn't tightened at least as much as it was before disassembly.

Not sure what kind of impact wrench you used, but they won't all manage it.

[webfoot]

Yah, my 1/2" drive craftsman isn't up to the task. I just bought a tool that holds the pinion, when used in conjunction with a breaker bar, for $21 shipped on ebay.

[robz]

Originally Posted by LPete

I don't know what to think about this. Just so you know, it takes a lot of torque to compress the crush sleeve -- I'd guess 150 - 200 ft. lbs. or more. I'd try and feel for any play in the pinion bearings -- probably easiest to feel by trying to shake the companion flange side to side, perpendicular to the axis of the pinion. If you don't feel play it's probably OK, but I've never seen one where the nut wasn't tightened at least as much as it was before disassembly.

Not sure what kind of impact wrench you used, but they won't all manage it.

LPete, I never replaced the crush sleeve, reason why I marked it, so my understanding was that the pre-load was already set and not much pressure was required to put nut back...it comes almost to 1/4-1/8th of an inch from mark...I did try to move the flange side to side, and it's very tight...I was afraid to go more in case new seal added a new thickness and if I overtightened it, may have damaged inside (bearing or pinion?)....

Yes, Webfoot, I have a Campbell/Hausfield with 450lbs of torque(Max advertised)...plenty to do the job, hopefully...

UPDATE to my post: After posting realized what I said is wrong. Thickness of pinion seal flange wouldn't make a difference, but what Sirrotica said below would as well as I remember adding a dab of sealant on the washer before putting on nut...

I'm not worried at all Sirrotica...:-)...Just wanted to answer the questions...It felt very tight when I tested it out...

[Sirrotica]

Just flipping the washer over could cause it to be off that much depending on if the washer was deformed at all. If it's tight as far as play and is quiet I'd bet your gonna be fine. Drive the car and quit worrying...LOL

[LPete]

You're correct -- if you aren't compressing the sleeve further it doesn't take a lot of torque. Taking up slack (setting preload back where it belongs) due to slightly worn bearings does require crushing the sleeve further. The seal wouldn't affect this at all.

I wouldn't worry about it if you don't feel play -- just not sure why the marks didn't go back where they belong.