[HWYSTR455]

When it comes to fuse-able links, they're supposed to be as close to the accessory the wire is feeding, in general. Better= one for EACH accessory. Yes, breakers can be useful, though in certain high-load situation, they can 'cycle' too.

MAD has several tech articles that address several areas, as well as by-passing a factory ammeter.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

The MAD tech stuff is a great basic source of info, and even if you don't use the suggestions, worth a read. I suggest getting the concept of the 'power-up' advice clear, will help when looking at either upgrading or fixing any car electrical system.

If doing an engine harness, always upgrade the alt charge wire to a larger gauge, for future needs if not current needs (no pun intended!).

If you're looking at doing extensive repairs, you may consider a 'kit' from some place, like American Auto Wire. You get an updated fuse block (for one), and could save you time overall. (now or in the future troubleshooting).

If you're not going for the factory look, the woven expandable loom (covering) is great stuff, and looks even better than it works.


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["QUICK-SILVER"]

Since it is an 'up-grade'.

First; I think I'm starting to like the big maxi fuses better than fuse link wire. If nothing but for the ease of changing them compared to doing fuse link correctly. Sure is easy to carry spare fuses as opposed to carrying spare link, soldering iron, etc.

2: Junction block for power supply is the only way to go. I like un-cluttering engine wiring as much as possible. Especially when fuse link is used. Forget those days of having to go to the starter solenoid or undoing wiring harness behind the alternator to repair a fuse link.

3: Replace wire but use the original power supply wire locations going inside. Both engine running/alt charging (main splice under dash), and the orignal engine off/no charge junction block wire. Just splice the two together where the old amp guage connections were at. That may be overkill but is bound to last for ever.

Simplier the better. Cleaner and neater. No extra wires on a hot engine.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Since it is an 'up-grade'.

First; I think I'm starting to like the big maxi fuses better than fuse link wire....

2: Junction block for power supply is the only way to go......

3: Replace wire but use the original power supply wire locations going inside....

Simplier the better. Cleaner and neater. No extra wires on a hot engine.

That's what I did, all three, and then some. I used a ford sol as one junction block, or the main junction block, mounted above the factory bulkhead harness connector, and grouped all the power wires from the bulkhead connector to it. Also the alt charge wire, the starter wire, the wire that goes to the battery, a 2GA wire that passes into the passenger compartment with a maxi fuse in between, and another 6GA wire that goes to a fuse block on the radiator support.

The one 6GA that goes to a 6 fuse ATC/ATO block on the radiator core support I have a bank of relays off of, 2 for the fans, 2 for the headlights, and 1 for the horns.

The 2GA that goes into the passenger compartment I have a stud mounted under the dash, off that stud I have 2 4 fuse ATO/ATC block, one fuse block I have a 40amp relay that is key-on, the other full time, for under-dash accessories.

On that same stud, I go back to the trunk with a 2GA to another stud, and a 6 fuse ATC/ATO block, with a bank of relays. Those relays feed the fuel pump, N2O bottle valve, N2O bottle heater, and have spares. I feed a pair of stereo amps from the stud (they have built in fuses).

This setup provides full power to all the studs with very little drop, even with all accessories on. Also allows for easy addition of accessories, and easy troubleshooting too.

All the terminals for factory harnesses are available, so you can pop a terminal out of a connector, re-do it (even with heavier gauge), and plug it back into the connector.

Think I posted pics here somewhere, at least of sections of it, if you're interested in searching.


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[george kujanski]

here's a quick sketch of what you can do.

The idea of using modern fuses such as the Maxi-fuse instead of links is good for the mentioned reasons. A junction block keeps the mess of cables away from the starter large bolt, which was used as a handy junction point.

Since you are not using the ammeter, you can use the existing brown wire from the alt to the junction block, and the yellow from the block, thru the fuse, to the main feed to the car.

The two fuses protect against an alt cable short and a short on the main feed to the car. As always, there's no fusible protection from the bat to the starter; that would need a 400+ A fuse.

George

[HWYSTR455]

That's pretty much what I did George, except instead of a junction block, I used a ford sol. Guess I could clean that up a little and use a junction block, will go back over it since I want to use the expandable loom stuff (mine's wrapped at the moment).

Oh, and by the way, there are pics on my photo album of the wiring on the driver, though some a little dated.

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