[nytrainer]

I love this thread and always anxiously await more posts. I was wondering how many folks in the PY forum might be missing out on Mr. Brown's valuable insights and explanations regarding fabrication, rust repair, panel alignment, etc..because they might skip over the posts as they are in the "Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiac" section. This thread is way more than just that! Every PY member could take something from this thread. Guess it's my way of giving you kudos Mr. Brown.
Dave

[fbrown]

I love this thread and always anxiously await more posts. I was wondering how many folks in the PY forum might be missing out on Mr. Brown's valuable insights and explanations regarding fabrication, rust repair, panel alignment, etc..because they might skip over the posts as they are in the "Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiac" section. This thread is way more than just that! Every PY member could take something from this thread. Guess it's my way of giving you kudos Mr. Brown.
Dave

I appreciate the complement. More of this thread is devoted to the restoration than the LS motor conversion. Because of the LS motor, this thread might not be appreciated in the 68/69 section. A number of other sites have a project section. It might be nice if this site also had a Project section. At present my thread doesn't really belong in any section, although this section is probably the best.


I continued with my prep work around the trunk opening. It took only one additional coating of Rage to fill the imperfections. The trunk opening edges are ready for primer.




These areas don't photograph well. The work is very smooth but appears rough since it transitions from primer, bare metal, All-Metal and Rage Extreme. The curved area is very smooth although it is difficult to determine from the photos.








Some sanding Tips.

To sand inside corners where you don't want a sharp edge. Wrap sandpaper around a 3/16" piece on brake line. Don't have brake line, then use a drill bit.




For sanding the vertical edges of the trunk gutter near the corner.

Use a metal spreader and cut a piece of PSA sandpaper and stick it to the spreader. Paint stirring sticks can also be used.




For sanding curved surfaces that don't match any sanding blocks.

Use a plastic filler spreader. It can be bent and can be used on the curved surface. I cut and stick PSA sandpaper to the spreader.



You will need to change the paper frequently since there is so little of it on the spreader and it will wear out quickly.

[fbrown]

I Primed the trunk opening area today.

Masked and ready for primer.


Primed


Under side of trunk lid ready for primer


Primed


Next will be to install the trunk lid and do the final prep work to the trunk lid.

[mcshooter]

what primer are you using over the evercoat rage?

[fbrown]

Summit Epoxy Primer - SUM-UP230
Epoxy Primer Catalyst - SUM-UP231

I had been using Kirker Epoxy Primer but ran out and needed to obtain more Primer before the re-coat window passed. Delivery of Kirker takes me two days vs one for Summit Racing. It has been suggested that Summit Primer is made by Kirker. While the primer is similar it is not identical. The Summit product dries to a much higher gloss than Kirker primer.

By the way Rage Extreme is private labeled for Finishmasters and sells for about $35/Gal. I have compared "Rage Extreme" against the private labeled filler and found them to be identical. I had a little of the Rage Extreme left and did a side by side comparison with the private label product. Even the content list is identical.

Finishmasters is a paint supplier and has locations in most large cities.

[fbrown]

This is the House Brand of Rage Extreme. Sells for about $35



Cornering lights are hard to find and/or very expensive. A set just sold for $415 + Shipping on Ebay. I stumbled across these Buick parts that appear similar to the Pontiac cornering lights. I hope they work out. If not I can probably sell them for what I paid for them.



I started working on the passenger door today.

The back bottom corner is pushed in about 1/16" but is even with the quarter a couple of inches up.


Rather than fill this, this is something that can be tweaked. I used a Crescent wrench to carefully bent the edge back into place.


Success, no additional work needed here.



The area around the door handle will need more work. I believe this is due to the dynacorn quarter not being quite right. The edge goes from even to about 1/16" too high.


This is the first filling attempt. On this work I am using Rage rather than Rage extreme. Rage extreme tends to run on vertical surfaces when applied thickly. I will probably need another application on Rage and then follow it up with Rage Extreme.


The front door edge has similar problems and also requires filler. This is the first application. Several more will probably be required.

[PontGuy]

Cornering lamps-

Yes nice ones are hard to find. Those should work as long as they fit the fender cutouts and you are happy with the look. I searched for Grand Prix cornering lamps since I knew they were the same, and only paid around $50. The lenses and housings were nice but I had to get the bezels re-chromed which added another $200 or so. If the car did not originally come with cornering lamps you will have to cut out the reliefs in the core support. You will also have to install a new turn signal switch with harness in order to make them work. I got a Wells switch from RockAuto for around $20. For some reason the harness connector didn't fit because it was slightly narrow. No problem though, I just re-used my original connector. And none of the parts stores stock the correct bulbs that go in them. I found some on e-bay cheap though.

Not sure all the expense and work was worth it, but it is cool to see them work when I hit the turn signals at night.

That's going to be one really nice car. Looks to me like the final results when you are fixing gap and alignment issues are better than the factory standards back then.

Walt