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#1
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Forget the spring compressor.....they are absolutely not necessary, and make the job either nearly impossible, more dangerous, or take 3 times as long. Provided you have some skill, some common sense, and reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools they just aren't difficult or dangerous to do. Just have some respect for the stored energy, and keep your eyes and your mind "on task". I've never used a spring compressor to change the 64-87 GM front springs and I've done dozens of them.
Broken springs or a car that has its engine out are a different story.
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"XE cam basher" |
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#2
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just did this today on my 72 formula what a PITA, took a lot of swings to get the lower A arm to drop but spring just popped out after lowering it down with jack, there is no way that spring was going in without a compressor, i cut 3/4 of coil off, comprssed spring but it took two of us to pry it into place in the A arm, after that put it back together and it only dropped less than an inch, wanted 2 in but no way am i doing that again.
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#3
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I allways use a spring compressor for Mercedes (goes internal) and have never had any problems.
Just one coil spring bracket as far up on the spring and the other bracket under the lower arm, when compressed I take out the arm and the spring as a unit and release the compressor. So if 67 Lamnas think this is dangerous he has done it the wrong way, what is dangerous is taking the spring out without a compressor espescally when you loosen the knuckle and use a jack to lower the arm, then you for sure has no control over the spring. And yes I have done it the wrong way several times in my teens when I did not know better.. |
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#4
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A method I have used to "compress" a spring is to use a piece of all-thread rod installed inside the coil spring. I use a 3/8" diameter rod about 22" overall length. Using a drilled piece of metal large big enough to span the shock opening on the bottom control arm, double nut the bottom of the rod and insert it up through the coil spring and up through the upper shock mount hole in the upper control arm and double nut the top end of the rod. (The required length of the rod depends on individual situations.)
If the rod is inserted when the load is on the spring, several inches of the top of the rod will be exposed. By tightening the top end nuts down to a snug fit, the load can be taken off the spring and loosening the top end nuts will allow the lower control arm to move down enough so that all load is off the spring. The threaded rod is removed and the spring can be removed. A reverse of this procedure is used to install the spring. I spot weld the nuts on the lower end of the rod to keep them from coming off allowing the top end nuts to be loosened or tightened by holding the lower end nuts. This also allows use of an air wrench on the lower end nuts to speed up the operation. Attached are some pics showing the use of threaded rods on my 63 Tempest springs. As you can see, the top and bottom of the spring (and rod) are both outside of the fender liner. Some cars may have the tops inside of the fenderwell making for the need to have someone assist in "wrenching". I have used this technique on various types of cars. |
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#5
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Quote:
I don't think it's dangerous if uninstalled or installed properly IMHO
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'65 GTO Hardtop ![]() 389 .030 400ci Tri Power, .068 cam, HO manifolds, M-20 4 SPD, '70 12 Bolt 3:36 Chevrolet posi-traction, Montero Red, Parchment gut, VINTAGE AIR, PFDB, Bilsteins, F&R HD Sways, Hotchkis rear bags, Firestone Indy 500 shoes "What's the point of owning a muscle car if you can't scare yourself stupid from time to time ?" |
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#6
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#7
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That's unbelievable.....
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'65 GTO Hardtop ![]() 389 .030 400ci Tri Power, .068 cam, HO manifolds, M-20 4 SPD, '70 12 Bolt 3:36 Chevrolet posi-traction, Montero Red, Parchment gut, VINTAGE AIR, PFDB, Bilsteins, F&R HD Sways, Hotchkis rear bags, Firestone Indy 500 shoes "What's the point of owning a muscle car if you can't scare yourself stupid from time to time ?" |
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