[70pontiaction]

When you re-install the crank gear to advance the cam the timing marks on the balancer DON'T move - just the gear inside the timing cover moves in relation to the crankshaft.

The fact that the timing moved exactly 4 degrees tells you that the cam is advanced that same 4 degrees.

I had a stock 1970 GTO 400 years ago with the RAIII 301/313 cam in it. We installed a 4 degree keyway to advance the cam when we installed it, because the GTO only had 3.23 gears and we wanted to pump up the bottom end. The rest of the engine was stock except for Thorley headers. And we DID install an HO Racing kit in the qjet. Stock distributor with lighter springs at 15 degrees initial timing.

With a 4spd, no posi 3.23s and LR50x15 TA Radials it ran a best of 13.85@103 in a big heavy 1970 GTO at 4800 ft shifting at 5500RPMs.

I've driven and ridden in several other RAIII 301/313 cammed GTOs with the cam straight up and they had considerably less power down low.

Finally lost that motor to a FRAM filter.........haven't used one since.

I've installed every cam since then 2 degrees advanced just to make up for chain slop. Never degreed one yet.

Verdoro: Glad the 4 degrees made a difference - hope you can figure out the other issues.

[chiphead]

Where on the intake does the PCV connect? If it's attached to an individual runner, than you may see more oil on that plug. Typically I try to connect the PCV to a carb port or the plenum so it spreads the vapor around. Are 2 and 4 or the same side of a dual-plane or not?

Honestly, that amount of oil looks like more than would come from a normal PCV setup. I would do leakdown tests, and check that head for signs of oil pooling around the valves. Worst case is damaged rings so I would try to test for that first. If it was one cylinder doing it, I would think OK, a broken ring. But the poor oil control on two adjacent cylinders not on the same rod journal has me scratching my head. Check to make sure all the valve seals are present and installed properly.

I'd be worried more about the plugs than the performance at this point. If the motor is hurt, getting more power out of it will aggravate whatever is going wrong.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by chiphead

Where on the intake does the PCV connect? If it's attached to an individual runner, than you may see more oil on that plug. Typically I try to connect the PCV to a carb port or the plenum so it spreads the vapor around. Are 2 and 4 or the same side of a dual-plane or not?

Honestly, that amount of oil looks like more than would come from a normal PCV setup. I would do leakdown tests, and check that head for signs of oil pooling around the valves. Worst case is damaged rings so I would try to test for that first. If it was one cylinder doing it, I would think OK, a broken ring. But the poor oil control on two adjacent cylinders not on the same rod journal has me scratching my head. Check to make sure all the valve seals are present and installed properly.

I'd be worried more about the plugs than the performance at this point. If the motor is hurt, getting more power out of it will aggravate whatever is going wrong.

I think you are probably right about the oil. After 100 miles the plug was fogged pretty good.

The PCV is connected factory style from the valley pan to the #2 intake runner on the factory manifold.

Like I said, this engine has very few miles on it - a few thousand at most. My thought at this point are bad valve stem seals. The heads were machined for the positive seals so it's possible there's an issue. There's not really an easy way to check that without removing the springs is there?

The valve cover isn't leaking. I wish it were that simple.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I think you are probably right about the oil. After 100 miles the plug was fogged pretty good.

The PCV is connected factory style from the valley pan to the #2 intake runner on the factory manifold.

Like I said, this engine has very few miles on it - a few thousand at most. My thought at this point are bad valve stem seals. The heads were machined for the positive seals so it's possible there's an issue. There's not really an easy way to check that without removing the springs is there?

The valve cover isn't leaking. I wish it were that simple.

Generally, if the valve seals are leaking, you will have oily buildup on the back side of the valve, NOT all the way up the runner. Look in the intake and see if #2 and 4 runners are oily too. If so, your sucking oil from the PCV valve. Otherwise, you would have to have a cam with a ton of overlap to get that much reversion.