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#1
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Can a mis aligned subframe cause this issue. The left front is 3/4 of an inch too. Tire rubs the fender real easy?
I ordered a 3/8in spacer which should fix the ride height. |
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#2
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What's the fender/hood gap look like? Or fender/nose gap? May want to check your core support and the core support bushings. Those rot and allow the core support to drop to the frame, making it closer, and closing the gap on the fender/wheel/tire.
Pop the hood and you can look at the gap between the frame and the core support, notice if there's a difference. And the end of the coil spring is in the pocket of the lower control arm? .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#3
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Quote:
Both springs are in between the 2 hole in the lower control arm. Tried my old springs and a new pair with the same result. |
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#4
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Ok, clarification needed.
Did you have the subframe out of the car? You checked the bushings, like, all the front subframe bushings? They're all the same height? Is the outside of the front tires the same distance from the fender lip on both sides? You're saying that you have a noticable drop in fender gap from the tire than from before you started any disassembly? There are positioning holes in the frame that match holes in the body. Are those close or lined up? You put the old springs back in and the same issue? Take 4 measurements, all 4 corners of the front subframe, and list the distance from the floor. Take a pic of the control arms from one side with it up on jackstands, with the tire off. Post it. .
__________________
. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#5
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Did you have the subframe out of the car?
Yes, had it all apart blasted and painted it and put in back together with all the same parts except a arm bushings and ball joints. You checked the bushings, like, all the front subframe bushings? All same and new. Is the outside of the front tires the same distance from the fender lip on both sides? The left front is 3/4 inch smaller or lower than the right. The right side is the same as pics I have of before I did the disassembly. You're saying that you have a noticable drop in fender gap from the tire than from before you started any disassembly? It was the same when I tore it apart now the left side is very low. Now the left front rubs very easily over small bumps turns or downshifting. There are positioning holes in the frame that match holes in the body. Are those close or lined up? I will check later this week when I get home You put the old springs back in and the same issue? Same with new and old springs. Both sets are stock replacement and it has the same 2 in drop spindles. Take 4 measurements, all 4 corners of the front subframe, and list the distance from the floor. I will get back to you on this. Take a pic of the control arms from one side with it up on jackstands, with the tire off. Post it. I will |
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#6
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Quote:
Are both sides dropped the same amount? My question regarding fender gap, I was suggesting side to side, like, does one side's tire stick out more than the other side? Suggesting a mis-aligned subframe? In a pinch, you could remove the top 3 inner wheel housing bolts. The tires are most likely hitting those. You will get an additional @ 1/3 of an ich out of that. Take a measurement at the 4 leaf mounting points too, just so we're not focued on the wrong end of matters here. As an example, if the passenger rear were an inch lower, that would make the driver front slightly higher, and visa-versa. I don't think it's the control arms, if they were deformed that much to cause this issue, it would be visably noticable. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I think the body bushings that go the rear 4 locations on the frame rails are different than the ones that go on the core support. Door to fender gap may show that. I would have to go look at a set of bushings to remember, might go dig a set out when I can, have to see what my night looks like. We'll get this figured out one way or another, no worries... .
__________________
. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#7
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I think you to narrow down to see if its indeed in the suspension or if its in the body. Get on some really level ground and look (study) the car from various angles, then start taking measurements. Look at gaps between body and frame (or subframe). Core support. When you replaced all these parts did you have an alignment done? My cousin has a 69 firebird convt. Couldn't figure out why his car sat crooked. While in for an alignment after all new suspension turns out the posi rear he got from a junk yard had a bent housing! Who would dream? it didn't have any obvious physical damage. But it took an alignment machine to figure it out. Not saying that's you're problem but you really have to study and measure. I hope you figure it out. Nothing more frustrating than something like that.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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