[Marty Palbykin]

[QUOTE=Kelvin Poe;4836175]Hey guys,

I'm in the process of freshening my motor and I'm running GRP aluminum rods. I got it apart and after popping the bearings out, I found 4 rods that had cracks in them. I've never seen aluminum rods crack in this area before and was wondering if anyone else has run into this. I have no clue how long they've been like this, I had it apart last winter to check the bearings, but just pulled the caps and looked at them. They looked perfect, so I never popped the bearing out, I just bolted it back together and ran it all last year.
Granted, I do have 350+ runs on them in the 5 seasons since I put them in, but still, I think I'm pretty easy on them. I'm only shifting it at 6800 and go through the 1/4 at around 7400. All the rod bearings still looked perfect with no signs of any wear. The mains, on the other hand were showing some wear, but nothing too excessive.
So, needless to say, looks like I'll be getting a new set of rods. Just need to decide if I will go back with aluminum or switch to steel.

Wow in a promod we change them at 25 passes.
Most ADRL guy at 15 to 20.
If you don't need aluminum rods why bother.
We have no choice.
BTW GRP is the best I my opinion.
Sounds like a good steel rod would work fine in your app.
I would recommend Carrello (sp)
Marty P

[Kelvin Poe]

Thanks for all the input, guys. I know I don't really need aluminum rods in my application, but I've run them in past engines and never had a rod or bearing failure, so I've stuck with them. I guess I just like the idea of having the lightest rotating assy possible. I even ran a set of the old Super Rods 10-15 years ago and had 600+ passes on them before I finally decided to retire them and they still checked out ok. But, I will probably just go back together with steel rods on this one. The only problem is, or that I don't really like, is that they will have to put weight back in my crank to balance everything. But, the guys at the machine shop didn't think that would be any problem.

[beastmaster]

I just want to show when aluminum rods come apart they can wad up into a mass and put alot of pressure onto the block walls . GRP rods brand new 8 runs not saying it's the rods fault just that aluminum can cause just as much destruction as steel or even more twice experienced this time going Olivers would have went Carrillos if i had of know more about them at the time , Tom Vaught gave me insight to them but had already had the Oliver rods in which i'am comfortable with also.

[XSIVPWR]

Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by XSIVPWR

Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers

Carrillo is the best steel rod you can buy.

Carrillo's are H-beam design, considerably lighter than the I-beam Oliver's. I have a set of 7" Carrillo's that weigh just over 600g.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[XSIVPWR]

Interesting. I have always heard Oliver's were.

[S/st 54]

Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO

Carrillo is the best steel rod you can buy.

Carrillo's are H-beam design, considerably lighter than the I-beam Oliver's. I have a set of 7" Carrillo's that weigh just over 600g.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

600grams!!!!!!!! NO STUFF!!!!? ????WOW!!!!!!




Kelvin I'm glad you decided to pull the motor down to give it the once over. I think you got lucky. I'm glad nothing was hurt other than the cracked rod! Hope you get the car back together and going this year! I gotta say when we ran in that quick 16 a couple of years ago that,THAT was still the coolest loss I ever had! Your car looked AWESOME going down the track at 150+at the stripe!

[beastmaster]

Originally Posted by XSIVPWR

Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers

Honestly at the time when i made my decision to go steel i knew only of Oliver rods back in 2010 , my new engine builder likes them but, just recently i've been seening Carrillo's name on alot on Pro stock stuff and just have this mind set to run the best that i can get. I being trying so hard get a build that would last so spare no expense to the rod . So after talking and checking into Carrillo rods they also have a good rep and there bolt program in which i do know now can be purchased and put onto my Olivers. Carrillo would just be the next step up thats the only reason i say this.

[XSIVPWR]

Originally Posted by beastmaster

Honestly at the time when i made my decision to go steel i knew only of Oliver rods back in 2010 i my new engine builder likes them but, just recently i've been seening Carrillo's name on alot on Pro stock stuff and just have this mind set to run the best that i can get. I being trying so hard get a build that would last so spare no expense to the rod . So after talking and checking into Carrillo rods they also have a good rep and there bolt program in which i do know now can be purchased and put onto my Olivers. Carrillo would just be the next step up thats the only reason i say this.

Maybe I should of done a little more home work I guess, As I just built a new 535 with Oliver's. But low to mid 800HP I think I will be fine.

[beastmaster]

Originally Posted by XSIVPWR

Maybe I should of done a little more home work I guess, As I just built a new 535 with Oliver's. But low to mid 800HP I think I will be fine.

I'am absolutely not taking anything from the Oliver rods i've have them building a 535 also with hopefully a couple hundred hp over 800 . They should be good up to approx 1200-1500 hp. Trying to find the HP rating to be positive on this statement.

[XSIVPWR]

[QUOTE=beastmaster;4836703] building a 535 also with hopefully a couple hundred hp over 800 .

Nice! Good luck with you build!