[ponyakr]

head gaskets are obviously very important & have caused many problems for pontiac dudes--& i'm no exception. my 1st bad experience was with our 1st stocker motors, built by a machine shop in '75. they put McCord gaskets on it, probably because they were cheaper. they, like the napa pistons, were not up 2 the task. at that time, victor pontiac gaskets were metal & looked a lot like gm's. i used them without a problem. i don't remember when, but at some point they switched 2 some type of fiber instead of metal--cheaper 2 make i suppose. at that time, i found somebody with a small stockpile of nos gm's & bought all he had. after they were gone i switched 2 fel-pro--never had a problem with them. today, for a hi comp 455(72 or less cc heads) i would recommend either the butler metal gaskets or even better, if your budget can stand it, the cometics. this may be 1 of those areas where its better 2 spend a little more now & avoid possible problems later! if you lower your comp into the 9's, then the best fel-pros will work. & if you go really low, the cheaper fel-pros should work. i'm sure opinions will vary on this subject, so i'd pose the head gasket ? for your comb 2 some on this site who have built & raced 455's in the last few years. i'd say, just 2 be on the safe side, i'd use at least 1 notch better gasket than really nescessary, for a little ins. blown head gaskets are no fun! oil pan gaskets have caused a lot of problems, especially the ones with 3 spikes. i've had em push out between the spikes. i personally like the nitemare method. use the 5-spike gasket for late 70's 400's & add extra slots 2 the 3-spike pan--they'll stay put. even cork, when properly fitted & glued is better than the 3-spike gasket. of course the only exception 2 this is the 1-piece BOP gasket--it gets my #1 vote if you can stand the $50 pricetag. i liked the rubber gaskets on the valve covers because of taking them off & on so often. for the intakes, i've already mentioned using mr.g 502g with the thin metal shims 2 block the heat risers. but for cold northern winters, you may want 2 leave the heat risers open. for headers, i used the cheapest mr.g's. but there are lots of others 2 choose from. some of the copper & others are reusable, so if you remove the headers often, these may be cheaper & more convenient in the long run. for rear seals, i used the cadillac seals sold by H-O--never had a problem. most say viton is better. but at least 1 builder says the neoprene is actually a little tuffer than viton--i don't have a clue. for most of the other gaskets i usually tried 2 glue 1 side & silicone the other. it makes the gasket reusable in most cases. that can come in handy if you have 2 remove parts at the track. i always kept a caulking gun & extra tubes of silicone, so i'd always have plenty at the shop or track. most builders now recommend ultra black silicone. you can usually find the best prices on gaskets on e-bay or amazon, unless you can give em a free ride on a larger summit order. if you're considering the butler head gaskets, see their site for special installation instructions.

[cuz68]

I like your storys also I look for them every time i log in, You tought me something to day about the smilies i did not know, And i have been here about 12 years, I cant find it now where is that more button at?

[ponyakr]

there's 2 ways 2 call em up. here's the easiest. look at the smilies section under the text block. clik on the word [More] which is directly under the a small window will appear. then you just have 2 sit & be patient---this is a good time 2 take a break, get a snack, go 2 outhouse, etc. cause it takes a long time for the smiles 2 upload. then you can expand the screen & just scroll down thru them & check em out. you can just clik on the 1 you want 2 put in your post or write down how 2 type it out, then type it in your text exactly where you want it. i've picked out the 1's i like & will be using & am going 2 make a list of them on 1 sheet so i want have 2 wait on them 2 load every time i want 2 use 1--will save lots of time. if you do this, be sure 2 copy the words & punctuation exactly like its shown, including capitalization. otherwise it won't work. have fun!

[ponyakr]

i been thankin about some of the small seemingly insignificant stuff that i did for so long it just didn't seem that important to me--you know, just no big deal. just do it almost without even thankin about it. certain procedures just became sorta automatic. certain parts on my race cars became standard equipment on every car i built. thru the years you can pick up a lot of good ideas that will benifit you in some way--like maybe save you some time or $. but if you don't have an old hand around 2 pass these little tid-bits of info down 2 you--then you'll just have 2 learn by doing. some guys don't want anybody tellin them anything--but some are glad, even eager 2 learn. i was fortunate enuff 2 have a few of the latter type that raced with us. i taught them everything i knew about wrenchin & racin, & had the enjoyment of watching them have fun & success in racing. so i've decided 2 share all the little tips i can think of that may help some gearhead out there. i'm gonna call it "speed barn tips" (sbt). i'll just post em along, occasionaly, as i can recall em. some of these i picked up from reading tips in hr & other car mags--some i just stumbled across myself. if you are an old hand at this stuff, then you probably know a lot more than i do, so these tips won't help you & may seem rediculous--but when i discovered them, they helped me then & thru the years. this 1st 1 i picked up myself. i bought up all the goats & birds i could find that were cheap--soon had a sizable pontiac boneyard in the barnyard. that reminds me--they're gettin scarce--if your gonna do this, try 2 start your own small yard of the type of cars you want 2 fool with--its great 2 just go outside & snatch off a part when you need it! whether you have 1 or a yard full, there'll probably come a time when you need for the car 2 be able 2 roll on all fours. for a racer, you may not want 2 leave the track tires on it all week, especially the rears. & after you leave a car outside for awhile you'll have flats--some that won't air up. if you need tires with air, then it'll be real handy if you have at least 4 that will hold air. it seemed that there at 1 time i never seemed 2 have enuff spares with the rite bolt circle, when i needed em. i usually needed 4.75" bc wheels, but all i could find with air would be 4.5" or 5". so i'd have 2 jack up another car 2 get rollers. when trying 2 fit a 5" on a 4.75" 1 day, i noticed that the studs only lacked going thru the holes by just a fraction. so i got out my 3/8 drill & a carbide burr & opened the inside of the holes very slightly--just enuff for the wheel 2 slip onto the studs. it don't have 2 bolt up tite or even straight, cause it'll only be rollin very slowly for a short distance. a 4.5" wheel will require the slight enlargement on the outside of the holes. so, just scrounge around from neighbors & friends & gather up lots of air holders(don't matter if they're wore out) & if they're not the rite bc grind on em just a bit & you'll have plenty of spares 2 move your roller. if you don't have a 3/8 carbide burr, you need 2 get 1. it has been 1 of my handiest & most used tools.

[ponyakr]

i just noticed that i said carbide bit, instead of carbide burr in sbt #1--tried 2 edit but a notice came up that you only have 65 minutes 2 edit & my time had expired. anyhow, i recommend a round tip(not a ball) 3/8 carbide burr--they are very handy! sbt #2 is very simple. on a race car you need catch cans for certain liquids--such as radiator overflow & oil from the valve cover breathers. for the oil, i used the breathers that come in a vac-u-pan system. instead of letting the oil blow out onto the valve covers, just run a piece of rubber hose from the tube on the breather into a tin can of some kind attached 2 the inner fenders or mounted somewhere convenient in the engine comp. i used small mouth cans such as large brake fluid cans or large lead additive cans with a mouth slightly larger than the hose. today these type cans are probably plastic. if you have plenty of $ 2 burn, you can just buy the nice lookin hi-dollar chrome catch cans. since these cheap trick cans don't have a drain plug, you may want 2 rig em so they are e-z 2 take out & drain. when i started racin i still had a big roll of rebar tie wire left over from my ironworker days, so i used it 2 secure the cans--it was not rocket science, but it worked & cost nothin! i always had the wire in my tool box so i could do quick makeshift repairs as needed. duck tape & tie wire are 2 gearhead necessities! make sure the rad catch can is tall & big enuff so it won't allow sloshout. if the hose is not a snug fit, you can wrap it with duck tape 2 take up the slack or use a short piece of slightly larger hose over the smaller hose & can neck, with clamps on both ends, if needed. it don't have 2 be airtight--better 2 leave it slightly vented. it ain't purty, but it works(or at least i know it did in the 20th century!

[ponyakr]

there are a few basic items i feel are almost necessities for the bracket racer or even street only guys. 2 me, they are almost as basic as a good set of vise grips, crescent wrench or socket set. the 1st is a small portable gas generator. they are avail from many sources, including online. i like 2 buy them from tractor supply. they sell a 2000w & a 3000w. i've bought both. they are about $200 & $300 respectively. they worked just fine--& if you'd like they sell an extended warranty. if you have unlimited funds, you can buy a honda. but you can probably just use a cheap 1 til it quits then throw it away & buy another 1 much cheaper--probably 6 times or more--honda is real proud of their gens. next, of course, you'll need a good hd batt charger w/a 200 amp engine start setting. i bought 1 from auto zone for about $100. if you don't run an alternator, you'll have 2 charge the batt between runs. next, you'll need a small portable air comp--summit & sears sell a 125psi unit for $125 or so, & of course, there are lots on e-bay & amazon even cheaper. you may have a good air comp in your shop at home, but it can't help you at the track. we use 2 try & get by with just a couple of portable air tanks, but sometimes thats not enuff--especially when some low buck racer parked next to you needs 2 borrow some air. the next item you should already have--its a good quality electric 1/2" drive impact wrench. i tried an air impact but got tired of hearing the comp cut on every time i used it. for me the electric is the only choice--i have a DeWalt brand that i believe i bought from home depot back before i even knew ebay or amazon existed--it's worked flawlessly. they save lots of work & time especially with jobs like changing tires. if you don't have 1 yet--when you get 1, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. these 4 items will make life a lot easier & races more fun & less work!

[ponyakr]

this tip is about batterys. ever have a corroded batt term cause your vehicle to not start til you got out(wherever you happened 2 be) & cleaned it, or at least wiggled it back & forth 2 get a better connection? sure, we all have--ain't no fun is it? & somehow it seems even worse & more embarrasing if it happens on your race car when anybody else is watching! well, here's what i like 2 do. 1st, buy a batt w/both top & side posts. 1 is called a 34/78 series. a smaller 1 is called a 75/25 i believe. the trick is 2 hook up both sets of posts. wal-mart sells all the top & side terminals you'll need 2 accomplish this. you can probably find some old batt cables around your shop 2 cut short pieces from 2 connect the top & side posts--if not, you can buy it by the foot at most parts stores. this will give you twice the chance of not losing connection because of cruddy posts/terms. for all race only cars i recommend using 2 of these double post batts, mounted in the trunk area. the '74 vent 2 i bought off racingjunk.com had 2 double post red top optimas mounted in the trunk, but only the top posts were connected. i got some side terms from wal-mart & connected the sides 2 tops on both batts. then i had a good positive connection which i did not have 2 worry about, + had the extra weight in the rear for increased traction--a double whammy all around! for racing, where you'll be draining & charging the batt a lot, the yellow top optima is probably a better choice--its a deep cycle type. i think its # is a D34/78. no, they ain't cheap--$185 from amazon--but they could easily pay for thenselves at 1 race, if your car won't start for the final round, because of a cheaper batt.