[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

The dates should be around the interior of the rim not on the face. They are stamped in rather large fonts with a two letter code, where it was made and a date I think? I think you can actually see a portion of one of them on the rim in the lower left of this photo. Looks like a 12?

Here's a photo of what I mean:

[Bentwheelbob]

OK, it must be a sign of the apocalypse when two of the PY masters give differing information. Well, maybe not.....

Here's a couple of examples of what I have. How do you interpret the stampings?

[njsteve]

I know what the MADE IN USA and the 15x7 mean. :-)

But as for the other codes, I will defer to an expert for those.

(BTW, Aren't you going to remove the stick on weights?)

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by njsteve

I know what the MADE IN USA and the 15x7 mean. :-)

But as for the other codes, I will defer to an expert for those.

(BTW, Aren't you going to remove the stick on weights?)

I may have stepped in it here. I assumed the stick on weights were from the rims themselves being balanced since there were also standard wheels weights around the rim perimeter. Not the case? I knew this was going along too well.

HFR - thanks. Sounds like a bunch of orphans.

[njsteve]

The stick ons were used because they allowed for a more accurate balance. Because of the heaviness and uneven loading of that urethane face, these wheels are very hard to balance to our pickiness level. And I also wanted to keep the weights off the face side of the wheel for aesthetic reasons.

I checked the outer codes on the honeycombs that came with the 72 when I bought it and they are an orphan later set, as well. As I recall i went through a dozen wheels before I found a nice balance-able set that I used for the radials that are on your car now. The next best set were used for the bias ply set that went with the T/A and the really wobbly ones were used for trunk mounted spare tires.