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Old 11-27-2013, 10:57 PM
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Bottom of RA air cleaner showing vacuum routing. T on far side and loop out to the vac flap
Yes this is a air cleaner for a 400, but 400 uses 2 vacuum flaps , same as the 455 unit.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:05 AM
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Bruce,

Thanks again. I think this is right....

Now what vacuum source is "correct" to connect to the other nipple on the air inlet switch? Is it the fitting in the manifold front, driver's side? That seems like a long run from the rear of the air cleaner. Also, what is the conventional wisdom between yellow stripe vacuum hose vs. white stripe? Did the factory use both?






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Old 11-28-2013, 05:16 PM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob View Post
Bruce,

Thanks again. I think this is right....

Now what vacuum source is "correct" to connect to the other nipple on the air inlet switch? Is it the fitting in the manifold front, driver's side? That seems like a long run from the rear of the air cleaner. Also, what is the conventional wisdom between yellow stripe vacuum hose vs. white stripe? Did the factory use both?





everything in this post appears correct to me. Vacuum to one side of the thermo valve, the other port supply's that vacuum to both snorkels when heated up.. I say it is exactly as you have it routed in these pictures.

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Old 11-28-2013, 05:42 PM
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Bob,
you actually had it right the first time. Here's a pic of my original 455 HO RA air cleaner with the original, white-striped hoses. The short one that comes off the tee in the front is the one that goes down to connect to the vacuum source on the intake manifold (the fitting that you have circled in your engine pic).
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by blue71ta View Post
Bob,
you actually had it right the first time. Here's a pic of my original 455 HO RA air cleaner with the original, white-striped hoses. The short one that comes off the tee in the front is the one that goes down to connect to the vacuum source on the intake manifold (the fitting that you have circled in your engine pic).
If you plumb the vacuum lines like that, and like the black car was plumbed, one of the vacuum actuators will be closed at all times when the engine is running. These vacuum actuators are normally open, and close when vacuum is applied. That means that as soon as manifold vacuum is generated the actuator on the vacuum source side of the air inlet thermal vacuum sensor will close the flapper and as long as vacuum is present the flapper will remain closed and prevent fresh air from entering the engine. Also, the only way to get both vacuml actuators to work in unison is to have them both plumbed to the same side of the air inlet thermal vacuum sensor.

I need to do some more experimentation in the morning, but I think the air inlet sensor is normally open which lets the vacuum go through the "switch" so to speak thereby closing the flappers in both snorkles. Once the vehicle comes to operating temperature, the switch (air inlet sensor) closes thereby preventing the vacuum from passing through it and to the actuators. In the absence of vacuum, the flapper doors open and fresh air enters the combustion process.

This sounds good on paper and i think I am right.

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Old 11-29-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob View Post
If you plumb the vacuum lines like that, and like the black car was plumbed, one of the vacuum actuators will be closed at all times when the engine is running.
That is what I was thinking.

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Old 11-29-2013, 09:41 AM
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It sounds good on paper and I am completely wrong....

So after coming down from my post turkey and sweet potato high, and getting a good nights sleep., I broke out the heat gun and vacuum pump this morning. I was correct that the air inlet thermal vacuum sensor is normally closed, but both nipples on the bottom of the sensor are on the closed side. Pull a vacuum on one nipple of the sensor and it moves through the sensor and creates a vacuum on the other nipple as well. Put heat on the sensor and the sensor opens up on the top side of the sensor (that part on the interior of the air cleaner) and releases the vacuum. Once the vacuum releases it lets the flapper doors open. Those who said that the correct plumbing was as pictured below were correct.
I think...

BTW - the vacuum actuators on this air cleaner work perfect and hold vacuum, but show no sign of having been replaced unless NJSteve did his usual fine job.


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Old 11-29-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob View Post
the air inlet thermal vacuum sensor is normally closed, but both nipples on the bottom of the sensor are on the closed side. Pull a vacuum on one nipple of the sensor and it moves through the sensor and creates a vacuum on the other nipple as well. Put heat on the sensor and the sensor opens up on the top side of the sensor (that part on the interior of the air cleaner) and releases the vacuum. Once the vacuum releases it lets the flapper doors open.
So once it opens up, and lets the vacuum out, it is a controlled vacuum leak... Got it now. Never checked mine, I always thought it allowed vacuum when cold and closed when warmed up stopping vacuum to the actuator.

Still trying to locate where I found the colored hose information.

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Old 11-29-2013, 10:12 AM
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yes, that is correct the way you have it now.
As an aside, the '71 and '72 T/A air cleaners have the vacuum lines routed the same way (with the 455 HO).

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