[blue71ta]

Very nice work, Bob (as usual).

Just one thing I noticed, and maybe you have already added it since you took the picture, but it looks like you're missing the metal clip that goes on the bottom side of the air cleaner for the thermal switch. It is used to hold the switch to the air cleaner and also holds the 2 vacuum lines in place. Looks like this (see attached pic):

...just trying to help. Keep up the great work.

Oh, there is also a thin, paper-like gasket that goes between the switch and the air cleaner, but you may already know that.

[njsteve]

Mission creep is right! Nice stockpile of parts you have sitting around. What did you end up doing to protect the flange area on the air cleaner form boot scuffing?

Also, you may want to flatten out the glossy finish on the master cylinder. They should be flat black. I don't think it was a black phosphate finish as it appears to be a flat black paint on my 73 (or what's left of it).

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Also, you may want to flatten out the glossy finish on the master cylinder. They should be flat black. I don't think it was a black phosphate finish as it appears to be a flat black paint on my 73 (or what's left of it).

You are right, it wasnt phosphate, but it was semi gloss (60% roughly) when new. It was cheap black Alkyd enamel paint which fades fast ( like all cheap alkyd enamels do). The durability of that original crap paint is slightly better than horrible. After 2 years they looked nearly flat. Only "masters" shipped bulk in crates for sub assembly got the paint, brand new ones over the counter in 72 were unpainted like they are today. Bob could use a semi flat clear on that master and would probably look good, but better than new..and more durable.
All IMHO...... love the car, and wish it was here, although its snowed now.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by blue71ta

Very nice work, Bob (as usual).

Just one thing I noticed, and maybe you have already added it since you took the picture, but it looks like you're missing the metal clip that goes on the bottom side of the air cleaner for the thermal switch. It is used to hold the switch to the air cleaner and also holds the 2 vacuum lines in place. Looks like this (see attached pic):

Thanks. The thermal switch I installed was a cheap repop that did not include a clip. The one on the original air cleaner was an AC Delco part that did have that. I am going to try to track down the Delco piece. It looked much more original and robust.

Originally Posted by njsteve

Mission creep is right! Nice stockpile of parts you have sitting around. What did you end up doing to protect the flange area on the air cleaner form boot scuffing?

Also, you may want to flatten out the glossy finish on the master cylinder. They should be flat black. I don't think it was a black phosphate finish as it appears to be a flat black paint on my 73 (or what's left of it).

Thanks Steve. I am going to use the 3m Paint Defender Spray Film. I have never used it and will report back the results and effectiveness. Worst case once I get the original air cleaner straightened up I will know what not to use. On the master cylinder, what kind of paint did you use and any suggestions for flattening the sheen?

[njsteve]

Generic Rustoleum flat black was the closest thing to the original finish...unless of course you want to start a new thread on comparing flat black paints....

;-)

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Generic Rustoleum flat black was the closest thing to the original finish...unless of course you want to start a new thread on comparing flat black paints....

;-)

I haven't seen any general lack of consensus on flat black paints, but I'll keep my eyes and ears open just in case. What did you use on the master cylinder? I'm trying to figure out the best way to tone down the shine and wonder if it is just Rustoleum or a similar rattlecan finish, or if you used POR-15 like on the air cleaner snorkles.

[njsteve]

Actually I can't remember what I put on there? But the flat black should be able to be painted over it without a problem. Does POR15 make a flat black?

[Judge273]

Why is there a rubber hose cut off piece on "stove" top of carb where it sticks out of air cleaner? To level out? Protection? Never seen this before.

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I haven't seen any general lack of consensus on flat black paints, but I'll keep my eyes and ears open just in case. What did you use on the master cylinder? I'm trying to figure out the best way to tone down the shine and wonder if it is just Rustoleum or a similar rattlecan finish, or if you used POR-15 like on the air cleaner snorkles.

Rustoleum makes a semi-flat paint that seems to be just enough above flat without looking too shiny.. Try that, NAPA sells it, or I'm sure an online search will produce retailers..

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

Rustoleum makes a semi-flat paint that seems to be just enough above flat without looking too shiny.. Try that, NAPA sells it, or I'm sure an online search will produce retailers..

Thanks Bill. I was more concerned about what type of finish is currently on the master cylinder as it relates to determining the best way to recoat it. I am worried about adhesion since it is so glossy, and even more so if it were an epoxy type paint like POR-15. However, after poking around tonight I find that the existing paint is already crinkling and lifting around the top from the brake fluid. Looks like I will need to figure a way to get the existing paint stripped off. With respect to recoating it, I know it is a bit hare brained, but I have this evening ordered some stove black that I am going to experiment with. It is basically black pigments and wax. While it isn't permanent, it can be renewed without stripping.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Mission creep is right! Nice stockpile of parts you have sitting around. What did you end up doing to protect the flange area on the air cleaner form boot scuffing?

Also, you may want to flatten out the glossy finish on the master cylinder. They should be flat black. I don't think it was a black phosphate finish as it appears to be a flat black paint on my 73 (or what's left of it).

So as Steve points out I need something to keep the air intake boots from scuffing the top of the snorkles. I have decided to give 3M Paint Defender a try. It is basically a spray on clear latex like material that is intended to be used as a spray on rock guard/bra that can be peeled off. Today I tried it out on a test basis using the lid on the old air cleaner which I am planning to media blast anyway. It seems like a pretty cool product. It sprays on thick, milky and with a strong orange peel appearance. As it cures it flattens out and turns clear. I'm pretty impressed. The only bad thing is that it is definitely higher gloss than the paint I used on the air cleaner. Here's a few pictures.