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#1
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It's a 76 made to be a 71-2 shaker. Not an original 71-2 shaker repaired to be better then new. Just a 76 shaker repaired to work as a 71-2 shaker. It's a nice job but not an original.
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#2
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If this was an NOS fiberglass dome in a box from 1976 would it be different? No. It is the same part number piece. That is why people use them to restore the 71 and 72 shaker units. The unique-to-1971/2 portion is the metal base plate and the flapper door assembly, both of which are on this unit. I have a near NOS 1973 Formula wheel that the original owner purchased in 1975 and is in its original box dated 1975. Does that make it a 1975 wheel, unacceptable for use on a 1973? I bet there's a lot of people out there that wouldn't mind that incorrect part on their car, judging from the emails I received on it. I found an NOS Formula hood that I used on the black 455HO Formula that Bentwheelbob now owns. It was made in the late 1970s but had the same part number used from 71 to 75. I guess it was incorrect as well, under your same logic. Sorry Bob, but I need that hood back. When I sell something, which is a very rare occasion in and of itself, I give full disclosure. If you don't like it, don't buy it. But don't give grief to people just for argument's sake. Last edited by njsteve; 12-02-2013 at 08:17 AM. |
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#3
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And in my continuing effort at full disclosure I added this to the Parts For Sale listing:
"In case anyone is confused by my above-referenced thread, this should help: From 1971 to 1976, Barnum Fibre Co. Inc., produced the fiberglass dome portions of the shakers, regardless of whether they were the 71/72 style with the flapper door glued in place or the 73-76 style with the rivet plate and frame glued in place. They employed the same molding part number through the entire production run. There is no way to differentiate what year the dome came from since they were not date coded. The only unique-to-71/72 parts were the metal base and the flapper door assembly. I used a 1976 fiberglass dome section to restore this 1971/2 shaker assembly. (And I am assuming it was 1976 and not 73,74 or 75 based solely on the "400" decal that was in place when I located it, since there are no date codes on these fiberglass domes). Hope that is of some help, especially to anyone who may need to restore one of these themselves in the future." |
| The Following User Says Thank You to njsteve For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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Man, the killjoys are trolling the forums these days.....Norwood has spoken and its a good one!
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Mike/Illinois |
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#5
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I'm not trying to start a fight, just wanted clarification because I have 2 76's in my attic and if I can sell them for 850 each as 71's I'm all over it. BTW I have a great all original 71 formula 455 for sale. ( check my build page, I took a real nice base model and swapped over a 71 formula vin I got on Internet for 70 bucks)
Get it now? Steve
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462 Yc Block, zero deck Probe forged pistons 6cc relief, Scatt Hbeam rods floating pins aprox. 10.21 CR Comp Hyd-roller cam,roller lifters,springs ect. 236 244@ .050 108 LSA .511 lift, duration 289,297 @.oo6 Edelbrock Aluminum 87cc round port heads Larger valves ,ported polished and cut Powerjection3,T2 manifold, Try-y’s Flowcooler water pump. 71 formula with TKO600,hydraulic clutch 3.42 posi and 26 inch tire. 17x9 YO Honeycombs with Nitto 555's |
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#6
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If you have the correct 1971-72 baseplate sections, flapper doors, and rivets, by all means go right ahead if you have the skill level to accomplish it. Make sure you post your progress on your thread so we all can critique your competency level and knowledge of part number interchangeability.
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#7
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However I've met a few really good people here as well. If you guys can get real deal money for a "put together" piece, more power to ya. |
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