[cfd2bc]

Hello everyone. I got my 400 in and put a 200 4r behind it. I have a Holley 650 DP mech secondaries. I bought the Holley TV cable corrector bracket and the tv cable bracket that attaches to the rear drivers side carb stud. I have read and looked at just about all the posts and videos on adjusting that cable. The measurements all look good as well as the geometry. I have done the adjustment to WOT.

I can either get the trans to shift well or have secondaries. With the cable adjusted so the trans shifts firm at the normal points, the tv cable limits the throttle linkage so only the primaries open. If I adjust it so I have secondaries, it shifts softly up through 4th by 30 mph.

I have tried fabing brackets, no brackets and the sonnax tv cable corrector kit. Someone told me "I guess you'll have to choose shifting right OR secondaries".

That can't be true......can it?..

Jeff

[fasterfiero]

I found this blurb

The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to.

#2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about ½-inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline.

#3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast.

[fasterfiero]

Also I set my tv cable for full pull at wide open throttle, and drilled the linkage on the carb, a red @#@ hair closer to throttle shaft than the picture... . I pulled the cable all the way out and had the carb held at wide open to kinda eyeball things up before attaching the button to the linkage....

Yank on the cable a few times... make sure the plunger is moving freely , Thinking about this a little bit it seem my trans took a little bit before it was good shifting and kick downs were quick, it is best to get the cable right, too little cable and you will not have enough pressure. yank on the cable a few times, double and triple check your bracket, (you may be able to move it a smidgen closer to the shaft center-line ) it doesn't take much

[Richie Hoffman]

I have done that swap haven't had problems used Phoenix trans cable corrector and made sure cable pulled straight

[67drake]

Shot in the dark,but ya never know...
When you set the cable adjustment are you giving it full throttle with the gas pedal or underhood working the linkage by hand? Sometimes you can move the linkage farther by hand,under the hood,than if you were going to the floor with the pedal from inside the car. This can leave a little extra slack in the cable when you are putting your foot to the floor with the pedal. Not tight enough and your pressures are going to be low,and as said above this will burn up the tranny quick.
Also,as stated above,with the cable disconnected,you should be able to feel the resistance when yanking on the inner cable by hand. They can get sticky down at the valve body.
Also,double check that fluid level. If it is reading a hair higher on one side of the dipstick as compared to the other,always go by the low reading. Add fluid till the lower reading is up the the Full mark.

[428GTO70]

Is it possible the trans is just not setup properly for your application? There is more to them than the tv cable setup for proper shifting.

I have one of these behind an Olds 455 in an 85 Cutlass and it has issues shifting smoothly(stacked shifts, late shifts etc). I brought it into a local reputable trans shop and they said that I have the cable setup correctly, however it needs some springs changed inside it to adjust the shifts(I think they said in the valve body but cant remember). I haven't had them do it yet but probably will next summer sometime.

[ELKHORNAOG7]

If you go into shiftworks they have the right set up for the 2004r trans. the part hooks to the carb. linkage and you adj. cable at the carb. not at the bracket and it will set the right geo. for the cable, it lets you get the right adj. for aftermarket intakes also-----BOB

[harry k]

Jeff
Does your TV cable has adjustable end on it where it slides on the TV stud?
from sound of it you have an oe application non adjutable type tv cable, where you are running out of adjustment.

[chevymad]

The holley parts did not work for me at all. I ended up buying bowtie overdrives cable/bracket setup and then my 2004r worked awesome. With a transgo kit in it the shift points/feel were perfect. With the holley bracketry everything was messed up.

[cfd2bc]

Thank you everybody for the replies! I looked at all of them and went back under the hood. I have an old 650 Holley. Using the new Holley corrector bracket, the knob for the TV cable was at least an inch pull to center. It only moved probably a half inch forward of center. Which according to fasterfiero's post was backwards. So the new bracket obviously doesn't fit my older carb. I fabbed a bracket which moved the knob up (to the 1 2/32 ish from centerline) and closer in to midline so it would move 1/2" to center then the 1" past. It worked!! I now have shifts AND secondaries.

Geez I knew there was a better answer than "you pick which one you want".

Thanks once again for the help.

Jeff

[cfd2bc]

I will go ahead and look into the shift works and bowtie overdrives to get the proper setup for sure.