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#1
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If I had of known about the high iron content in the first place, I would have either (A) lubed it with high temperature wheel bearing grease like you suggest, or (B) thrown it in the garbage and bought a true Oilite bushing. As it stands at this point, I chose option "B". And I did not put any lube on the bushing once again, because this time it is a true Oilite bushing, complete with vacuum-impregnated lubricant. I called Beemer Precision, the makers of true Oilite Bronze, and they assured me that if in fact my new bushing is genuine Oilite (which my new bushing definitely is), that no additional lubricant is necessary. As the bushing begins to warm up, it slowly releases its factory-installed lubricant. I actually purchased an extra true Oilite bushing from Autogear just to have on the shelf. It is amazing to see the "film" of lubricant through the zip-lock bag it is stored in. The bag looks quite cloudy. Conversely, I kept my original offending Chinese bushing and also put it into a zip-lock bag. There is absolutely no sign of a lubricant whatsoever. So, as I have now learned, I guess you could get away with some wheel bearing grease on a high-iron (magnetic) bushing, or go the true Oilite route. Knowing that the true Oilite offering is permanently lubricated and is "softer" on the transmission input shaft, I would definitely stick with the Oilite bushing. Last edited by propuckstopper; 01-06-2014 at 12:30 PM. |
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#2
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Having used the std Pilot bushing since the 60's with lube (owned a lot of 4 spd cars and a 68 Z-28) & (As per industry install instructions) and NO issues I wouldn't say Chinese as I don't think they were made back then in China.
All pilot bushing are metallic with ALL manufactures, I.E. Chevy, Ford, Mopar, the list goes on. So don't blame the product, it's knowing what you are supposed to do if you are going to do it yourself. Hope the new pilot bushing has the right hardness to handle the loads of the input shaft. Millions were and are sold. As you stated, you didn't lube it. Question: So if oil weeps out the Oilite brg, when does it reach it's saturation point and no more oil is impregnated in the bushing? Not doggin ya dude, but having sold and used aftermarket pilot bushings for over 45 years I knew there had to be obvious reason. Have fun with you ride and hope it works out for ya. |
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#3
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My personal opinion still remains: for those of you out there that have the experience to know that these magnetic bushings need lubrication, I guess they will work. But I believe there is a better way (the true Oilite bushing). Just so you know where some of my research comes from, I have supplied a few links: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-question.html http://www.camaros.net/forums/archiv.../t-150426.html http://www.chevelles.com/forums/arch.../t-357685.html I just don't want to see anyone in the situation I found myself in, but at least this thread will help people realize there are actually two very different types of bushings available: 1: Iron-containing magnetic bushings that must be lubricated. 2: True Oilite bushings that are plug and play. Last edited by propuckstopper; 01-06-2014 at 06:53 PM. |
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