#1  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:08 PM
propuckstopper propuckstopper is offline
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Location: Canada
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Default No Lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by PONTIAC DUDE View Post
What did you use for lube on the bushing?


Using High temp Wheel bearing grease eliminates issues.

Curious......... How can you get screeching if there is grease in the bushing?
The iron percentage content is to keep the bushing from wearing and keep the hole centered.

It's not the Chinese made units as I have pilot bushings in stock that are over 20 years old and have a magnetic content from Pioneer.
Hi there. To be dead honest, I did not use any lube whatsoever on the original Chinese bushing because true Oilite is not supposed to be lubed. As this was my first time ever doing a project like this, I did not realize that this Chinese bushing was not true Oilite, so I installed it lube-free and went to town.

If I had of known about the high iron content in the first place, I would have either (A) lubed it with high temperature wheel bearing grease like you suggest, or (B) thrown it in the garbage and bought a true Oilite bushing.

As it stands at this point, I chose option "B". And I did not put any lube on the bushing once again, because this time it is a true Oilite bushing, complete with vacuum-impregnated lubricant.

I called Beemer Precision, the makers of true Oilite Bronze, and they assured me that if in fact my new bushing is genuine Oilite (which my new bushing definitely is), that no additional lubricant is necessary. As the bushing begins to warm up, it slowly releases its factory-installed lubricant.

I actually purchased an extra true Oilite bushing from Autogear just to have on the shelf. It is amazing to see the "film" of lubricant through the zip-lock bag it is stored in. The bag looks quite cloudy.

Conversely, I kept my original offending Chinese bushing and also put it into a zip-lock bag. There is absolutely no sign of a lubricant whatsoever.

So, as I have now learned, I guess you could get away with some wheel bearing grease on a high-iron (magnetic) bushing, or go the true Oilite route.

Knowing that the true Oilite offering is permanently lubricated and is "softer" on the transmission input shaft, I would definitely stick with the Oilite bushing.


Last edited by propuckstopper; 01-06-2014 at 12:30 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-06-2014, 03:11 PM
PONTIAC DUDE's Avatar
PONTIAC DUDE PONTIAC DUDE is offline
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Post

Having used the std Pilot bushing since the 60's with lube (owned a lot of 4 spd cars and a 68 Z-28) & (As per industry install instructions) and NO issues I wouldn't say Chinese as I don't think they were made back then in China.

All pilot bushing are metallic with ALL manufactures, I.E. Chevy, Ford, Mopar, the list goes on. So don't blame the product, it's knowing what you are supposed to do if you are going to do it yourself. Hope the new pilot bushing has the right hardness to handle the loads of the input shaft.

Millions were and are sold.
As you stated, you didn't lube it.

Question: So if oil weeps out the Oilite brg, when does it reach it's saturation point and no more oil is impregnated in the bushing?

Not doggin ya dude, but having sold and used aftermarket pilot bushings for over 45 years I knew there had to be obvious reason.

Have fun with you ride and hope it works out for ya.

  #3  
Old 01-06-2014, 06:41 PM
propuckstopper propuckstopper is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Canada
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PONTIAC DUDE View Post
Having used the std Pilot bushing since the 60's with lube (owned a lot of 4 spd cars and a 68 Z-28) & (As per industry install instructions) and NO issues I wouldn't say Chinese as I don't think they were made back then in China.

All pilot bushing are metallic with ALL manufactures, I.E. Chevy, Ford, Mopar, the list goes on. So don't blame the product, it's knowing what you are supposed to do if you are going to do it yourself. Hope the new pilot bushing has the right hardness to handle the loads of the input shaft.

Millions were and are sold.
As you stated, you didn't lube it.

Question: So if oil weeps out the Oilite brg, when does it reach it's saturation point and no more oil is impregnated in the bushing?

Not doggin ya dude, but having sold and used aftermarket pilot bushings for over 45 years I knew there had to be obvious reason.

Have fun with you ride and hope it works out for ya.
No offence taken. I do not think you are doggin' me at all. In hindsight, you are correct in the fact that I should have lubed the magnetic bushing but I did not know that because I assumed it was self-lubricating (Oilite), which of course it wasn't. So, in essence, I feel that my squealing could have been eliminated by applying proper grease to the improper material.

My personal opinion still remains: for those of you out there that have the experience to know that these magnetic bushings need lubrication, I guess they will work. But I believe there is a better way (the true Oilite bushing).

Just so you know where some of my research comes from, I have supplied a few links:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-question.html

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archiv.../t-150426.html

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/arch.../t-357685.html

I just don't want to see anyone in the situation I found myself in, but at least this thread will help people realize there are actually two very different types of bushings available:

1: Iron-containing magnetic bushings that must be lubricated.
2: True Oilite bushings that are plug and play.


Last edited by propuckstopper; 01-06-2014 at 06:53 PM.
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