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#1
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It is the master cylinder, who makes one close to the original configuration?
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#2
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They only thing is Jeff.... you never know when a hard line will fail, or when a rubber line at the wheel will fail. Any day of the week I'd rather trust a dual master than a single. Just my
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#3
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On the edge!Rock Auto has several listed; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...415&cc=1350155
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car.
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#4
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I think our host sells one. |
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#5
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read all of the responses to your problem and yes they are all very good possibilities when we restored my 66 goat I put a chrome dual master and a chrome booster so I have a cast dual master and a gold booster with proportioning valve. this master was orginal and we rebuilt it worked well on the goat, if you should to decide to go dual I have a complete unit that we can deal on if interested e/m meat [email protected] Good luck |
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#6
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Revive this thread. The reason the front brakes were dragging was the rod going into the back of master cylinder is 1/8 to long. Does not let master cylinder fully release. I still have my original booster and the rod is actually longer, but recesses farther into booster. I doubt they make a rod that much smaller. Left with ordering another one, rebuilding the original, not sure what direction to go.
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#7
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How about shortening the rod 1/8"...
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#8
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