[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by speedfreq

TCP Global still makes the blue suede your looking for, or at least they were when I needed it about 8 months ago.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...ntiac-pg02.jpg

TCP Global would not fill an order for black suede around Christmas.Told me they could not get the additives any longer. Plus, sold me 1 gallon of Cameo White for $400,then jacked the price up to almost $900 a gallon for anymore gallons. Glad I bought bunch of the correct lacquer colors over the past few years. Lacquer ,at least OEM quality, is a thing of the past. PPG has announcements on their web site to this effect.. if anyone needs or will need correct suede paint, I would get it asap. A pint(which mixes at 1: 1.5) ends up being a quart +, which is all you would ever need.That will do 3 maybe 4 dashes considering the thinned amount.

[FunctionalShaker]

I believe you can get it in a DuPont paint. My understanding is that it simply has less metallic and a flattening agent in it to reduce the glare. Haven't seen the orange peel texture. I remember asking about it a while back at the store that supplies my paint.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

I believe you can get it in a DuPont paint. My understanding is that it simply has less metallic and a flattening agent in it to reduce the glare. Haven't seen the orange peel texture. I remember asking about it a while back at the store that supplies my paint.

The original stuff definitely has something in it that gives it a "texture". A friend of mine had a can of it (original lacquer) that I borrowed to give to the guy who painted the last T/A I restored. He didn't realize it was supposed to come out textured, and sanded it off twice trying to get it to be "flat"....

[FunctionalShaker]

Did the texture flatten out with age, because non of the interior parts I have with original paint have texture on them?

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.
69 TA stripes were also Tyrol.

Suede mix adds more of a grain than an orange peel.
It was supposed to give additional aid to defracting light / glare - along with the flat sheen of the color. Double whammy .

You will never get the aftermarket products to look like the factory applied finish did.
Looks cheap to me and i quit using it a long time ago.

If you can bake the finish right after application at about 250-300* like the factory did you might get factory looking results with suede mix.

It did tend to "smooth out" some with age on the factory finishes.

Most of the aftermarket suede mix just makes a bumpy surface that later creates problems with cleaning techniques down the road. Most end up slathering it with armor-all to get it to look uniform again. Aftermarket flat paint with suede mix added is not very forgiving.

[hobi]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.
69 TA stripes were also Tyrol.

Suede mix adds more of a grain than an orange peel.
It was supposed to give additional aid to defracting light / glare - along with the flat sheen of the color. Double whammy .

You will never get the aftermarket products to look like the factory applied finish did.
Looks cheap to me and i quit using it a long time ago.

If you can bake the finish right after application at about 250-300* like the factory did you might get factory looking results with suede mix.

It did tend to "smooth out" some with age on the factory finishes.

Most of the aftermarket suede mix just makes a bumpy surface that later creates problems with cleaning techniques down the road. Most end up slathering it with armor-all to get it to look uniform again. Aftermarket flat paint with suede mix added is not very forgiving.

Very true Barron heat gun after you spray works sometimes if you don't get carried away. my 4 cents

[70RAlll]

If you have access to an automotive paint stores database where it shows the different colors %'s that make up the formulation for a color,like the bright blue poly suede mentioned here, you will see a very small component is actually called "texturizing agent". My local automotive PPG store, 5 yrs back or so, said they could not get that component when I asked for a quart of black suede.Told me they normally just leave it out, that no one notices anyway. We went round and round and finally spoke with the local PPG rep, who informed the auto paint supply herein TN that in fact PPG still had the texturizing agent for sale, but only came in gallons . I had to buy an entire gallon, only to use a few ounces in my quart. SO without a doubt it is different paint and texturizing agent is part of the formulation. Also one member mentioned that he has looked at all his interior and can't see a textured surface.The only parts that suede is used on is the dash,rear bottom metal piece along rear window(package shelf). The A pillars and other trim is just semi gloss. Anyway, I ended up selling the gallon of texturizing agent to a restorer I helped source parts for. If you look on the PPG sheet shown on TCP, it clearly lists all the pieces that were covered with suede.And Zep is correct when he states this was simply to deadened the suns glare.GM actually called this mixture Zero Gloss.And per the original 1970 RM sheets, suede was not used on Tempest and Lemans-guess that means GTO's?? Here is a link to the place that can make the PPG lacquer.They advertise for Mopars(which all of the manufacturers used this process) but email them and give them the Ditzler code, they will make you the bright blue poly suede. One last thing.. There may be other lacquers available, but the PPG Duracryl is/was the closest to OEM since R-M(Rinshed-Mason) quite suppling the GM Paint. RM was the original aftermarket supply of GM formulas. Here are the Fisher and Tintometer codes for your bright blue suede:FisherWOA3742 Tintometer 170B25 It was originally called Med. Bright Blue Iridescence .. Hope this helps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cuda-Challen...item3a81a9d0dd

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw

Have you seen that documented anywhere?

Not debating you, because Lucerne certainly doesn't match the stripes well. Just that I've never seen any factory or paint manufacturer lit that specifies a different color...

[68bird400HO]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.

This is incorrect. The shakers were Lucerne. I had this same question when I restored my car a few years ago. I had the opportunity to view an original paint car and it clearly had a LB shaker mismatching the stripe. Furthrtmore, when I sanded down my own shaker I went through a few layers of colors, including a red color that the car was painted once in the early 80s. Under all of that there was the LB paint over black primer as the last two layers. Matched the paint chip dead on. A lot of people prefer (or incorrectly believe) that the stripe should match and mix up a non-metallic paint to do so. I am not even sure Tyrol would look right anyway since the stripe color has a touch of aqua that may clash worse than LB.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Tyrol / Marina is the ticket.
But don't think i have ever seen a documented factory spec - either way.

Lucy looks sorta toopid with the stripes - i think its taken more for granted than it is anything. imho
Never thought Lucy was real sweet to the bright blue interior either.
But she is a pretty color.

I wouldn't take a 30-40 year old exterior metallic lacquer specimen too deeply.
But it boils down to choices made by the gut.

Seems like their ought to be a factory paper with that spec somewhere.
Whatever the true written verdict is.

[70RAlll]

Guys.. just a thought, no proof this is correct..but I know PPG states that the body painted in Lucerne blue must have a G5 grey undercoat for correct color..since we know the shakers had black primer, could that produce the darker blue that we all think looks better?? Has anyone tried painting a shaker Lucerne blue but using a black primer?? If someone has time to make test sprays using a grey primer vs a black primer ...might just produce the darker blue?? Just a thought I had after thinking through why these have black primer.. I am probably wrong, but it is a thought...

[transam1972]

in 1980 I had this same problem..on my 1976 that I added the blue stripe I took my spoiler with the stripe and had them colour match it...was too dark...then I recall looking in a paint chart and it listed the shaker colours...Cameo white and Lucerne blue for 70 to 72 Trans Ams...that was how I got my N.O.S shaker painted...I wish I had torn out that page and kept it...any how with todays colour matching I believe the shaker might look terrible if it actually matched the funky aqua sea green of the stripes...if my car was more completed, I might expend the energy and money to see if it was possible to actually have the shaker match the stripe...but I am most likely a few years a way from having my car painted so it does not matter..I actually am getting my air cleaner and shaker painted so it is one more item off the list and I do believe 100% that Lucerene blue was used to paint the shakers.as I have seen a original 71 with it...but I also believe other blues were used as RAMAIR 1972 T/A is not Lucerne blue...I bet 72 Engine colour would match the stripe better!!

[formula400]

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

Guys.. just a thought, no proof this is correct..but I know PPG states that the body painted in Lucerne blue must have a G5 grey undercoat for correct color..since we know the shakers had black primer, could that produce the darker blue that we all think looks better?? Has anyone tried painting a shaker Lucerne blue but using a black primer?? If someone has time to make test sprays using a grey primer vs a black primer ...might just produce the darker blue?? Just a thought I had after thinking through why these have black primer.. I am probably wrong, but it is a thought...

You will use a gallon of base trying to cover over the black.. The factory would've primed the shaker first I believe. Just like CA built cars, they where all primed black then primer shaded to the base color

[yellow fever]

It looks from that sheet that the one I need is called "medium bright blue poly", Ditzler code 13966, right?

[yellow fever]

I'm talking about the sheet from TCP Global that 70RAIII provided the link to, page 2.