[nytrainer]

Darth,
All those parameters (weight, gas, axle, etc) are considered when curving the distributor so don't worry about that at this point. I'd check the initial because by just setting the "all in" to 36 your initial may be too high. Don't want to get into a detonation problem. If spec is supposed to be 6 BTDC you don't want to advance it too much. BTW my engine's spec calls for 29-33 "all in" so best to make sure you are in specs. Now that you know HOW to do it just get the spec and dial her in.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Darth,
All those parameters (weight, gas, axle, etc) are considered when curving the distributor so don't worry about that at this point. I'd check the initial because by just setting the "all in" to 36 your initial may be too high. Don't want to get into a detonation problem. If spec is supposed to be 6 BTDC you don't want to advance it too much. BTW my engine's spec calls for 29-33 "all in" so best to make sure you are in specs. Now that you know HOW to do it just get the spec and dial her in.

hmmm I just went and tried. The way I set the all out timing was set my light to 36, rev and then adjust until it's at 0. I just went and tried to check the timing for the idle timing and i don't know how to check it hahah. It is not anywhere near the numbers. It will read at the 0 on the numbers when I have the timing light set to 30. Not sure if I am doing that right there.

On another note...this snorkle thing for the air breather...where should it be pointed? Directly at the fan or to one side? I moved this and it made a huge difference on the idle

[nytrainer]

Originally Posted by Darth Menace

hmmm I just went and tried. The way I set the all out timing was set my light to 36, rev and then adjust until it's at 0. I just went and tried to check the timing for the idle timing and i don't know how to check it hahah. It is not anywhere near the numbers. It will read at the 0 on the numbers when I have the timing light set to 30. Not sure if I am doing that right there.

On another note...this snorkle thing for the air breather...where should it be pointed? Directly at the fan or to one side? I moved this and it made a huge difference on the idle

Ummm, alright lets see. I am stating the obvious here but you do have the light connected to #1 cylinder?
When you saw the "all in" timing was 36 (still unsure what the spec should be for your engine) you had the engine at a sustained 2500-3000 rpm with vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged? To check timing at idle simply (with vacuum advance disconnected and hose plugged) point the timing light and adjust the timimg light until the mark on the balancer is at zero. Then look at the reading on the timing light.
Usually when you are setting the initial timing you move the distributor. You then check what the total is afterwards (as described prior). Not really a great idea to be fiddling with the distributor while the engine is running at 2500-3000 rpm. When you adjust initial timing higher or lower the total timing will follow it (either up or down the same amount). You can't adjust one without affecting the other so do all your adjustments at idle. To try and clarify that lets say you have 12 initial and 34 total as observed (random example). If you decrease the initial to 9 (3 less) your total will now be 3 less (now 31) or increase initial 2 degrees then total will increase 2 also.
My replies are wordy I know but I am trying to make sure you get it.

[Darth Menace]

Yes, the vacuum advance was pulled (not plugged), and the light was connected to the #1 cyl. Also, another thing, is some instructions say to have the e-brake on while car is in drive...I didn't...I had it in park the whole time. Totally didn't think of the drive thing, and last thing I want is to do timing myself with the car in drive and revving it up to 3000rpm. I did adjust the dist while the car was idling though, not at 2500-3000rpm.

And this is where I think I am messed. The all out timing was lined up at 0 when I had the timing light set to 36, but at idle it would line up to the 0 when my timing light was at 30. Something is amiss here with what I am doing.

I can take a video later today if you want to see what in the world I am doing. Likely easier than my typing a description.

Regardless if it's set wrong, it's good that it runs better than before. Progress is being made.

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Ummm, alright lets see. I am stating the obvious here but you do have the light connected to #1 cylinder?
When you saw the "all in" timing was 36 (still unsure what the spec should be for your engine) you had the engine at a sustained 2500-3000 rpm with vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged? To check timing at idle simply (with vacuum advance disconnected and hose plugged) point the timing light and adjust the timimg light until the mark on the balancer is at zero. Then look at the reading on the timing light.
Usually when you are setting the initial timing you move the distributor. You then check what the total is afterwards (as described prior). Not really a great idea to be fiddling with the distributor while the engine is running at 2500-3000 rpm. When you adjust initial timing higher or lower the total timing will follow it (either up or down the same amount). You can't adjust one without affecting the other so do all your adjustments at idle. To try and clarify that lets say you have 12 initial and 34 total as observed (random example). If you decrease the initial to 9 (3 less) your total will now be 3 less (now 31) or increase initial 2 degrees then total will increase 2 also.
My replies are wordy I know but I am trying to make sure you get it.

[PontGuy]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Darth,
I'd check the initial because by just setting the "all in" to 36 your initial may be too high. Don't want to get into a detonation problem.

Yes you don't want detonation, but you don't want to give up power either. So once you have it dialed in close and know what the base is you will need to test drive and adjust. If it pings/detonates anywhere, then back off. If it hesitates, then advance. I would not go past 38 all-in no matter what. With the compression numbers that you got and assuming it has at least a mild performance cam, and assuming a typical curve in the distributor, my bet is that 34-36 will be about right.

Going further with this once you understand how your engine combo responds you can custom-curve the distributor to get the most out of it. In the past I've done this myself but worked with Suntuned to curve the distributor for the 455 I have now. But we are still a long, long way from optimizing to that level on your car, and it really is not necessary unless you like tinkering to get every last HP out (like I do.)