[AdamIsAdam]

So if I run a jumper wire from the positive of the battery to the sending unit, I should get a correct ohms (90 for my full tank) reading off the negative side of the sending unit, correct?

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[Pepi]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

So if I run a jumper wire from the positive of the battery to the sending unit, I should get a correct ohms (90 for my full tank) reading off the negative side of the sending unit, correct?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

I personally wouldn't run power right from the battery to the sending unit. Like mentioned before, you need a print, to find out what supplies the power to the gauge, and trace it out. Maybe when you had the rear seats out your flat wire harness got stepped on or disturbed somehow.

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by Pepi

I personally wouldn't run power right from the battery to the sending unit. Like mentioned before, you need a print, to find out what supplies the power to the gauge, and trace it out. Maybe when you had the rear seats out your flat wire harness got stepped on or disturbed somehow.

That's exactly what I was thinking, which is why I was considering a jumper, to by-pass the flat wire. I'll do some trouble shooting over the next few days and see what I come up with.

Thanks for your input, everyone.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

So if I run a jumper wire from the positive of the battery to the sending unit, I should get a correct ohms (90 for my full tank) reading off the negative side of the sending unit, correct?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

:

:jump ing:

NO NEVER EVER HOOK B+ TO SENDING UNIT WIRE.
The thinnest wire that would melt first is the rubbing block that the float arm rubs up and down own to vary ohm readings.
Might be like sticking one of those little wire lighters in a solid rocket motor.

Need to talk about your meter and how to use it.

Please do not work on your car untill someone talks to you.

Sending pm and e-mail if possible