[Will]

As has been mentioned - use good quality pistons with 4 valve reliefs, NOT the rebuilder 8-relief pistons, cut the block for zero deck, mill the heads .030" on deck and intake side. You'll end up just under 9:1 compression which should be fine for what you want. If you want to spend the money, get some custom 2-valve relief pistons and you should be right at 9:1. Sounds like the ports are getting cleaned up so that'll help a little.

A factory '68 manifold is pretty much the best intake you can run. I'm not a fan of Carter carbs, would much rather see you run a Q-jet...

I'm with Bret - I wouldn't run a stock spec cam though you really don't want to go very big with a stock torque converter and 3.08 rear gears.

The 066, 067, and 068 cams were all originally designed for mid 9 and higher compression ratios. They also have hardly any lift. I'd go with a modern profile that uses a more advanced intake centerline to work better with the lower compression and has more lift and thus more "area under the curve."

Something like the Crower 60915 would be an excellent choice, or for better low RPM torque the 60917.

Both of those cams will work very well with manifolds. Definitely get some RA manifolds, they'll make a big difference.

Get your distributor recurved, that'll also make a big difference. Exact timing numbers are unique to each engine, but a curve that gives you 12-14 initial with 32 total all in by 2800-3000 RPM should be real close.

Consider investing in a good quality torque converter, something that will be well coupled below it's stall speed but still give you a 2400-2600 RPM stall when you nail it. Torque converters, IMO, are one of the most overlooked and misunderstood performance parts out there. They can make a huge difference to how your car performs without negatively affecting driveability when properly chosen.

[Badss540]

Originally Posted by Will

As has been mentioned - use good quality pistons with 4 valve reliefs, NOT the rebuilder 8-relief pistons, cut the block for zero deck, mill the heads .030" on deck and intake side. You'll end up just under 9:1 compression which should be fine for what you want. If you want to spend the money, get some custom 2-valve relief pistons and you should be right at 9:1. Sounds like the ports are getting cleaned up so that'll help a little.

A factory '68 manifold is pretty much the best intake you can run. I'm not a fan of Carter carbs, would much rather see you run a Q-jet...

I'm with Bret - I wouldn't run a stock spec cam though you really don't want to go very big with a stock torque converter and 3.08 rear gears.

The 066, 067, and 068 cams were all originally designed for mid 9 and higher compression ratios. They also have hardly any lift. I'd go with a modern profile that uses a more advanced intake centerline to work better with the lower compression and has more lift and thus more "area under the curve."

Something like the Crower 60915 would be an excellent choice, or for better low RPM torque the 60917.

Both of those cams will work very well with manifolds. Definitely get some RA manifolds, they'll make a big difference.

Get your distributor recurved, that'll also make a big difference. Exact timing numbers are unique to each engine, but a curve that gives you 12-14 initial with 32 total all in by 2800-3000 RPM should be real close.

Consider investing in a good quality torque converter, something that will be well coupled below it's stall speed but still give you a 2400-2600 RPM stall when you nail it. Torque converters, IMO, are one of the most overlooked and misunderstood performance parts out there. They can make a huge difference to how your car performs without negatively affecting driveability when properly chosen.

Will, thanks for the info, forgot to say I'll be using the MSD HEI distributor that came with it.