[webfoot]

I'd get the external to internally regulator alternator harness conversion plug and use it as designed. They are cheap. The way it is set up there is no way for it to regulate the voltage.

A lot of people tap into the wiper motor plug for choke power.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by webfoot

I'd get the external to internally regulator alternator harness conversion plug and use it as designed. They are cheap. The way it is set up there is no way for it to regulate the voltage.

A lot of people tap into the wiper motor plug for choke power.

Oh, I thought what was done was an upgrade, not a downgrade. Shows that I have no clue

[gto4evr]

what I'm seeing is an internally regulated alternator without a plug on it at all. I don't really see a need to replace the whole harness, it looks like someone did the jumper for cutting the external reg out of the loop, but didn't cut the alternator plug off to splice in the internal reg alternator plug. I have heard of "one wire" aftermarket alternators but have no clue what the cases look like.

okay, I just looked up one on ebay, they put a black plug over the slot where the two wire connector plugs in. Staring at your picture, I think you've got a cap over the connector (close to your middle finger in the picture) So that's why that plug is hanging unconnected, you've got a one-wire alternator conversion on the car.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

what I'm seeing is an internally regulated alternator without a plug on it at all. I don't really see a need to replace the whole harness, it looks like someone did the jumper for cutting the external reg out of the loop, but didn't cut the alternator plug off to splice in the internal reg alternator plug. I have heard of "one wire" aftermarket alternators but have no clue what the cases look like.

okay, I just looked up one on ebay, they put a black plug over the slot where the two wire connector plugs in. Staring at your picture, I think you've got a cap over the connector (close to your middle finger in the picture) So that's why that plug is hanging unconnected, you've got a one-wire alternator conversion on the car.

Okay, so this is correct and the alternator should function as designed, although not ideal.

My car has a hard time starting, but I am thinking that is due to the crap crap crap carb and a somewhat weak battery (I had it tested and it got about 500CCA), so winter starting sure wasn't ideal. That being said once the car starts, it does continue to run and doesn't die out like when the alternator is pooched. So I think (famous last words) my alternator is all good.

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by Darth Menace

Okay, so this is correct and the alternator should function as designed, although not ideal.

My car has a hard time starting, but I am thinking that is due to the crap crap crap carb and a somewhat weak battery (I had it tested and it got about 500CCA), so winter starting sure wasn't ideal. That being said once the car starts, it does continue to run and doesn't die out like when the alternator is pooched. So I think (famous last words) my alternator is all good.

yes, a simple test on the alternator is to get a voltmeter, (can get cheap ones at Harbor Freight for like $3 during their non-stop sales). With the car running you should see about 14.5 volts. Nothing that you've described sounds like a bad alternator anyways so this test would just be piece of mind that it's charging correctly. I have no experience with one wire alts other than knowing your idiot light is cut out of the circuit and won't function. I also didn't know that they don't start charging until you blip the throttle to exceed 1200rpms. Here's a link to nice description of the differences between the 1 and 3 wire alts. http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~...ternator1.html