[bkmont]

Originally Posted by Gtozy

Check my first reply. Code is on the front of the block

The link shows it's a 360hp.
WT 8-400 360 445 Manual 4 BC
What's the difference between a 360hp vs. a 350hp?
Thanks,
Bryan

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by bkmont

The link shows it's a 360hp.
WT 8-400 360 445 Manual 4 BC
What's the difference between a 360hp vs. a 350hp?
Thanks,
Bryan

That link must have had a typo like i did earlier.
WT is 350hp
WS (H-O) was 360hp

WT tells the application - GTO base 400cid / 350hp - Manual trans
The Engine Unit Number is a control number that serves a few purposes now and then. Its a real nice number to have data on. And most are clueless about it.

The VIN is more widely known about , and the main one that is likely to get restamped on a replacement donor WT to appear as original. The EUN is a second layer of defense in your favor - in certain scenarios.

That is not the build sheet you have.
It is the billing history / option content / with a few other things thrown in.

Build sheet - if lucky - will be found within the car.
A lot more specific data about components listed on them.

If you can handle the work , the engine is right #s matching - parts all accounted for - thats a real fair deal on a fine ass piece of Pontiac.

Its the 2nd most expensive 68 GTO i have in my files.
And only lost 1st by less than $20.

[johnta1]

That link must have had a typo like i did earlier.
WT is 350hp

1968 WT was 360 HP.
(as the WS also)

The automatic was 350 HP.

[bkmont]

Originally Posted by johnta1

1968 WT was 360 HP.
(as the WS also)

The automatic was 350 HP.

Thanks! What gives the stick the extra ponies?

[PontGuy]

The guy wants $8,000. Is that too out of line for this car?

If the frame and body are sound then it looks to me like the start of a nice car. But as mentioned don't underestimate the time and cost to put it all together and get it into good shape. No doubt it would be cheaper to buy one already restored.

Guessing here without looking at it first hand and seeing the parts that come with it- depending on how much of the work you do yourself I figure maybe 30K to make it nice, much more than that to get it into show condition with all the options or to put big power under the hood. So paying a few thousand less or more for the car now is not going to make much difference in the end.

Bringing a car back to life isn't about money, its a labor of love. If you are ready to take the plunge and put the time in, really want the car and honestly have the finances needed to do the restore then go ahead and buy it.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by johnta1

1968 WT was 360 HP.
(as the WS also)

The automatic was 350 HP.

It's a typo John, 68 WT was 350 HP.

[johnta1]

Just got it from the service manual?

I'll see if I can find any correction in the Craftsman Service News.

[bkmont]

Originally Posted by The Boss

It's a typo John, 68 WT was 350 HP.

Even at 350hp, the motor appears to have a good of amount of torque compared to the original chevy LT1 motor in my Z28.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Don't worry about the HP rating.
Those 68 WT's are great engines with big valves, screw-in studs, and guideplates.
Same engine layout as the 69 and 70 WT rated with 350hp.
H-O had better manifolds and i think a tad lil more bump on the cam maybe.
But all else the same.

Might be worth while to ask if they lowered the compression ratio any, or used hardened seats. Forged pistons, bored oversize, etc
Cam Card or Cam Specs

In case you missed it in this other thread , here is what the transmission stampings will look like for reference.

The Trans Unit Number from your BHC and partial VIN