[necdb3]

You can hook the entire system up the way it's supposed to be hooked up but unplug the electrical connection at the vac solenoid. When the solenoid is not energized, it gives vac advance.

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by necdb3

You can hook the entire system up the way it's supposed to be hooked up but unplug the electrical connection at the vac solenoid. When the solenoid is not energized, it gives vac advance.

Not on the 73 1/2's, they use the 4th gear to energize the solenoid to allow vacuum in 4th gear.

[necdb3]

Originally Posted by Pepi

Not on the 73 1/2's, they use the 4th gear to energize the solenoid to allow vacuum in 4th gear.

Not 100% sure about 73's but all earlier systems worked so the solenoid was turned OFF by the switch in the trans when you put the trans in 4th gear. That way, the solenoid was off under highway (4th gear ) driving. I can't amagine they changed the system just for 73.

If for what ever reason the solenoid is turned off, vacuum passes through to the vac advance in the distributor. If you unplug the switch at the trans, disconnect the solenoid, remove the fuse, etc, it will advance the timing.

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by necdb3

I can't amagine they changed the system just for 73.

Yes they changed it all up for at least 73's after March 15th. The solenoid activates for the first 20 seconds on startup, and then when switched into 4th gear. If I unplug it, it never energizes. I could always route the vacuum to the other side of the solenoid so it gets it. But I think I will do like njsteve suggested and hook it all up so it looks like it is correct, but sneak a line down to distributor to give it full vacuum.

[njsteve]

Had to actually work on the white car the other day. It was having a weird brake pedal - when you pressed the pedal it would initially be hard and then creep down to a certain point, about 2/3 of the way to the floor and then become solid again. I bled the system a couple times but it still persisted. No leaks anywhere. The back brakes were also running very hot. I was thinking maybe it was the combination valve internally leaking, or the original master cylinder that I had sleeved, internally leaking. I even swapped to a known, good master cylinder but the same issue was there.

I told my mechanic buddy Al and he said it was the rear wheel cylinders. Of course he was right. Turned out that they were sticking in the engaged position, thereby dragging on the drums. Since who knows how long it has been this way and how hot those springs got, for safety sake, I replaced all the return springs, along with a new set of shoes. (I photographed, labeled, and packaged all the original parts for posterity) and installed the new cylinders, and shoes. With the help of my son, we re-bled the system and now it works fine. Pedal is firm and doesn't budge.

[Formulabruce]

Organic shoes that look like relined ones? ( no rivets?)

[njsteve]

Yup. Bonded, not riveted. Though the originals have a weird inset groove down the center of the lining, from top to bottom that replacement linings don't have.