[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by Alvin

For Bob: Delco "Freedom" Battery included here

Excellent OEM Delco battery evolution thread w plenty of decal ideas & info http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=626352

From post # 40


From post # 66

I never realized there was a side post battery with the fill caps on top. That must have been short lived.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Craig - I'm sorry to hear that you seem to be falling apart. You've got to quit drinking all that beer and start drinking something stronger...I'll let Dave know you're gunning for his job. In all seriousness, I hope you are getting better and that neither problem was anything serious.

On the battery, there is lack of consensus on whether Freedom II or Freedom is correct for a '78. The general belief seems to be that Freedom is correct. Burd only has the Freedom II decals which were accepted as correct at the time of printing. The guy who printed them has since gone out of business and I don't think a source has been found to print the Freedom decals at a reasonable cost. Maybe Roger will weigh in with more definitive comments.

Get well.

Bob

TTT

[Bentwheelbob]

Well, after a brief hiatus I am back. Things have been busy at work, and I've been spending time doing some housekeeping on the other cars. In addition, I added a new member to the family by buying a 1991 NSX. More importantly, I've been waiting on parts from SD Performance and they will soon be here so the deconstruction on the Gold Car starts tomorrow.

Dave's doing a full blown rework on a set of 6X heads which includes milling them to increase compression, and he's also reworking an intake. In addition he has spec'd a custom grind cam to work with the heads, intake, and particulars of the car. The block will get cleaned up and zero decked separately, but I'm still trying to find the best place to have that done. Local options are limited, so I might have to take it to Ohio, Tenn, or Virginia. I need a quick turnaround and would appreciate any suggestions.

I'm pretty excited to get started, and will be sure to provide regular updates. Here's a couple pictures of the Y88 waiting for surgery, and the new NSX.

[6 Grrrs]

Great collection of toys and a great garage. You need a MPT? My pal Tod?

I have a great machine shop I deal with just north of Pittsburgh, if you cannot find any good shops around you. I would imagine you should be able to find something slower than 4+ hours away though.

[Norwood]

Send the stuff to Tennessee imho

[Bentwheelbob]

Tod - A man can never have enough friends. Anytime you want a road trip, come on down. Thanks for the suggestion on a machine shop. I may be in touch.

Norwood - Good to hear from you. I hope you are doing well and that your back has healed up nicely. Sorry I missed the trip to Chicago, but I've logged a lot of miles the last month and just needed some family time. Thanks for the suggestion. I've been thinking about Butler, but keep telling myself it's overkill. Since I'm getting bolt on ready heads from SD. all I really need is block work - cylinder bore, line hone, zero deck, cam bearings...On the other hand it is somewhat appealing to think about having them put the pieces together and run it on a test stand and dyno. Lot's of decisions.

We did get some work done today at the HRG. I'm a bit of a neat freak so the first thing I wanted to do was get another shelf installed to hold and organize all the parts. The two existing shelves are maxed out with parts for/from the Green Truck, Black Car, Yellow Car, and stalled 455 HO Red Car project. Fortunately Sam's still sells the same industrial shelf units I put in several years ago and the new one was able to be attached right in line with the others. On the car, the fluids have been drained, the hood and driveshaft are removed, and the shaker, ducting and battery are out. By the end of the day Friday the engine and transmission should be out and the real fun should start.

One question I have is can I detach the shifter from below the car, or will I need to pull the console so that the stick can drop out with the transmission? Also, I am still looking for machine shop suggestions. Here's a few pictures.

[2manyT/A'S]

JMO....and take it for what it's worth.....

Take out the original engine and put it under the workbench.......

Find a "generic" 70-74 400 or 78 XX block to build with the SD heads,cam, intake.etc.
Dress it up as a "poser" and nobody will even know.....except us.

I know how this story usually ends....you'll be CRYING when you window the #'s matching block.....

It likely won't be that much more expensive than freshening your original....and it will be waiting for you faithfully under the bench.

[Alvin]

One question I have is can I detach the shifter from below the car, or will I need to pull the console so that the stick can drop out with the transmission?

IIRC - removal of the shifter handle is accomplished by use a feeler guage and loosening (2) bolts etc. from the top interior floorpan side (separating it & bolts) from the shifter body that stays attached to the tranny.

Although, I could be way off base, and more than likely totally wrong.

[2manyT/A'S]

If you remove the plastic shifter escution,knob and boot....then unbolt the 2 bolts that hold shifter to mounting plate....and three linkage tab bolts....shifter should fall right out....

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

JMO....and take it for what it's worth.....

Take out the original engine and put it under the workbench.......

Find a "generic" 70-74 400 or 78 XX block to build with the SD heads,cam, intake.etc.
Dress it up as a "poser" and nobody will even know.....except us.

I know how this story usually ends....you'll be CRYING when you window the #'s matching block.....

It likely won't be that much more expensive than freshening your original....and it will be waiting for you faithfully under the bench.

I think thats a great idea. Just keeping the value of the car with that engine unmolested would offset the cost of the build long term IMO. Its like breaking open a chicken egg to see whats inside. Its only original once. (i know, beat to death cliché) But, I love original stuff so I am very biased. If I was going to do drive train mods, I would find an early 70's 455 & build on that. Can get some strong HP then & still dress it like it was never touched. 95% of people can't tell them apart.

[Bentwheelbob]

You guys are likely right, but I'll probably stick with the original block. The heads and intake that Dave is doing are spares, so the originals will stay unmolested. On the block the only modification will be zero decking. I had previously thought about doing what you're suggesting, but from a storage standpoint I don't want to allocate floor space for another extra motor. Also, the reality is the Gold Car probably won't be driven 1500 miles per year and although I'll do a smokey burnout from time to time, it's not going to be driven that hard. Hopefully we can bolt something together that won't explode or come unglued.

[Alvin]

It's yours to do what you want to it IMO.

At least you're not yanking the Poncho and plugging in an LS, 4-link rear, rack & pinion, current Camaro interior, Hoop wheels & rubber band tires, etc. etc.

Now on the other hand; based on my neighbors' experience w theirs; that fine looking NSX's brittle wiring harness and sensors I'd replace ASAP...

[RamAir]

Happy Thanksgiving Bob, I'm following your thread closely and I'm about to embark on a engine removal and freshening on my '72.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

You guys are likely right, but I'll probably stick with the original block. The heads and intake that Dave is doing are spares, so the originals will stay unmolested. On the block the only modification will be zero decking. I had previously thought about doing what you're suggesting, but from a storage standpoint I don't want to allocate floor space for another extra motor. Also, the reality is the Gold Car probably won't be driven 1500 miles per year and although I'll do a smokey burnout from time to time, it's not going to be driven that hard. Hopefully we can bolt something together that won't explode or come unglued.

You know all this already.....the problem is not usualy with the engine....it's your right foot.........

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

You know all this already.....the problem is not usualy with the engine....it's your right foot.........

Yeah, I hear you...I've just been checking out the Butler site and looking at short block packages using one of their core blocks. You all have me thinking. I may be hard headed, but I am partially open minded - hah.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Yeah, I hear you...I've just been checking out the Butler site and looking at short block packages using one of their core blocks. You all have me thinking. I may be hard headed, but I am partially open minded - hah.

Idea: why not purchase a package and have your worked heads, intake, etc. installed and dynoed/tuned run in prior to your install in the Y88? Perhaps you could have those items shipped direct to Butler for them to install and run it BF they ship to you?

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Yeah, I hear you...I've just been checking out the Butler site and looking at short block packages using one of their core blocks. You all have me thinking. I may be hard headed, but I am partially open minded - hah.

You already know that THIS is the exact reason WHY there are so many NOM stick 70-73 T/A's out there........It all started like your scenario....just want a bit more power.

Off the top of my head....they made about 7500 Y88's? and yours is a NICE one....

Far RARER than MOST black S/E's....and I believe the values on these cars will surpass the black ones...ESPECIALLY #'s matching ones.....

[Judge273]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

JMO....and take it for what it's worth.....

Take out the original engine and put it under the workbench.......

Find a "generic" 70-74 400 or 78 XX block to build with the SD heads,cam, intake.etc.
Dress it up as a "poser" and nobody will even know.....except us.

I know how this story usually ends....you'll be CRYING when you window the #'s matching block.....

It likely won't be that much more expensive than freshening your original....and it will be waiting for you faithfully under the bench.

I got to ask. Is this more likely an event for a later year block? I could see youth and invincible thinking leading to denoted blocks.

I also ask that because of the 5 cars I own and drive hard. All have their born-with blocks. Don't want 5 husks on shelves as what-if scenarios either.

Granted I'm not drag racing and 500 stroking for extra hp ect. But, I mostly just go on long cruises in my formula. They all have been rebuilt by good engine guys too.

I always prefer the feel all stock iron stuff with new internal guts to keep the factory intended the ride?.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Judge273

I got to ask. Is this more likely an event for a later year block? I could see youth and invincible thinking leading to denoted blocks.

I also ask that because of the 5 cars I own and drive hard. All have their born-with blocks. Don't want 5 husks on shelves as what-if scenarios either.

Granted I'm not drag racing and 500 stroking for extra hp ect. But, I mostly just go on long cruises in my formula. They all have been rebuilt by good engine guys too.

I always prefer the feel all stock iron stuff with new internal guts to keep the factory intended the ride?.

My thoughts in this particular scenario:

First things first....the 78 W72 IS an "early style" block........which Pontiac brought back for this application.....they are all cast with XX designation....

BWBob is wanting MORE HP than the factory built into that motor........it IS buildable to the same HP levels that the earlier ones are....BUI......a heavy right foot CAN and WILL grenade ANY engine.....and I feel that BWB might be capable of this act.....

[roundportponchos]

Brian, do think, the 78 W72, stick cars, nice ones will go up in value?
You know mine, it's a nice low mile car,