[2manyT/A'S]

Cant' remember if we touched on correct engine color here previously....but there is NOTHING currently available in a rattle can that's real close.....

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

Cant' remember if we touched on correct engine color here previously....but there is NOTHING currently available in a rattle can that's real close.....

I didn't like the match from the rattle can "corporate blue" engine paints that I tried either. The rattle can color was too light and too blue, compared to some surviving original engine paint that was still in decent condition on my 79 TA's valve covers. The factory corporate blue has a slight greenish tint to it, and is a little darker than the rattle can paint. So, I took one of the valve covers to my local PPG auto paint store where they matched it and mixed up a quart in single stage urethane. Now the paint color looks right. Costs a lot more to do that, since not only does the paint cost more, but there's hardener and reducer to buy also(which I already had from previous projects, fortunately). I also prefer to prime the engine with a coat of epoxy primer first. So, that's one way to do it.
Also, for those that don't know, using automotive refinishing paint, like I'm doing, is fine to paint your engine with. It doesn't have to be high heat special engine paint. The engine doesn't get hot enough to hurt the paint.
Of course the exhaust manifolds do require high heat exhaust manifold paint, or ceramic coating, that doesn't burn off, if you're going to protect them from rusting.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Alvin

I've really enjoyed this thread from day 1, and greatly appreciate the humor and contributions here.

IIRC - there were 1267 '78 Y88 4-speeds made...(HERE) so I'm wondering out loud what the current survivor ratio/number is?

Any WAGs?

Alvin - Thanks. I appreciate all the help you have provided. Glad you're enjoying the ride.

Originally Posted by The Boss

Similar to the picture you sent me from the road to the nationals. As usual, he's doing the dirty work.

Chris - I thought you might appreciate that picture and wondered if you might feel a personal connection - hah.

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

You don't have to remove the brake booster unless you just want to. I didn't when pulling my engine out.

Thanks for the advice, but I was going to remove it anyway to replace it with a fresh, new booster and master cylinder as part of the under hood cleanup. I read with interest your paint match post. Do you still have the mix formula on your blend?

================================================== =======================================

Well, the engine and transmission are now out. No big surprises or stories. A few comments though in no particular order:

1) Speaking of brake boosters - man, what a pain to remove them on Fbodies. Four little nuts that take about an hour to remove. If Joey theWelder wasn't deer hunting we would have had him make an extended 9/16" wrench. I'm not sure how we will get the nuts on when the new booster gets installed.

2) Next in order of difficulty was removing the frame mount portion of the motor mounts. Again, I'm not sure how we will get the nuts installed when we put the new mounts on.

3) I'm not sure what has gone on with this engine, but it is clear that not only have the intake and valley pan been off, but the heads have also been off in the past. If you look back at one of yesterday's pictures you can see that the head gasket has no paint on it. I posted another picture below.

4) Everything under the hood looks good. Sort of like the floor pan and rear of the car when we cleaned off the grease and undercoating. The Front end will clean up nicely, and with the exception of the battery tray there is no real rust or rot. On the firewall you can see an original white inspection paint mark.

5) On top of the crossmember was something stuck in the grease. On closer inspection it turned out to be the bottom half of a sparkplug. Based on the quantity of grease it was trapped in that plug undoubtedly came from the prior century.

The fun continues. Here the pictures...

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I read with interest your paint match post. Do you still have the mix formula on your blend?

================================================== =======================================

Well, the engine and transmission are now out. No big surprises or stories. A few comments though in no particular order:

1) Speaking of brake boosters - man, what a pain to remove them on Fbodies. Four little nuts that take about an hour to remove. If Joey theWelder wasn't deer hunting we would have had him make an extended 9/16" wrench. I'm not sure how we will get the nuts on when the new booster gets installed.

2) Next in order of difficulty was removing the frame mount portion of the motor mounts. Again, I'm not sure how we will get the nuts installed when we put the new mounts on.

The paint I'm using is PPG's Shop-Line brand in single stage urethane (JAU). The color they found that's a close match is a Land Rover color. The name of the color is Tuscan Blue and the code is 16513. That's what they started with. I think they added a dab of yellow and black to make a better match with the valve cover I provided. So, since there was some tinting done to match the sample color, there's not an exact formula.

For the booster nuts, I have some "gear wrenches" with pivoting heads that I got from Harbor Freight that makes the job easier.

For the motor mount bolts, I prefer to put the bolt in from underneath and put the nuts on top. Much easier than trying to start nuts up inside the frame.