[rohrt]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

If you remove the water cross-over at the front of a normal uncut intake manifold, you need to drain the water from the cross-over first, like you would ANY intake manifold so possibly you could get water in the cylinders from the water cross-over IF you did not follow NORMAL intake removal instructions.

The heat cross-over normally has exhaust gasses passing from the heads to the open exhaust cross-over intake passage. No water there so far.

If you decided to do the water method in the normal exhaust cross-over you would plug the intake manifold close to the intake gaskets and then add the water to the sealed chamber you have now created by the plugs. Again, no water can get to the cylinders.

Hope this helps.

The factory exhaust cross-over USED to have a butter fly valve that blocked exhaust on one manifold and forced it thru the exhaust cross-over to heat the car and then the exhaust went out one exhaust pipe. When the manifold wamed up the butterfly valve opened and let the exhaust go out both pipes, (Lower restriction vs the cross-over so the exhaust gas in the intake over time basically cooled off to engine temp).

The proposal is to have the ability to add heated water to the intake if you drove the car in the early spring or late fall without cold drivability issues.

In the summer the water could be drained or colder water right from the lower radiator hose plumbed into the manifold thereby keeping the intake closer to ambient air temp.

Tom V.

Tom,

I will be filling the heads with aluminum vs trying to block the intake. So in my case with the arched exhaust manifolds pulling the intake off would dump the coolant right out. I think I would have to use some Grey RTV and a some kink of block off plate at the ends.

This was my thread on the same question.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=769992

With the heads filled I see three option assuming I run an iron intake.

1. leave the crossover in place and not mess with it

2. do this mode similar to what B-man shows.

3. Cut the whole exhaust manifold off completely to lighten the intake and have better airflow around it.

Most of my question revolves around if there is much of any benefit to this? My FB has just block off plats at the gasket and the intake still gets plenty hot but not boiling the gas out anymore. I would like to know if that David Vizard guy says if there is a sweet spot to for intake temps. I would also like to see what temps an intake runs with the exhaust cross over blocked. I need to purchase a IR temp gun.


I'm familiar with that old butterfly valve. When I was a kid that was the first thing to go in my pursuit for speed.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by rohrt

Tom,

I will be filling the heads with aluminum vs trying to block the intake. So in my case with the arched exhaust manifolds pulling the intake off would dump the coolant right out. I think I would have to use some Grey RTV and a some kink of block off plate at the ends.

This was my thread on the same question.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=769992

With the heads filled I see three option assuming I run an iron intake.

1. leave the crossover in place and not mess with it

2. do this mode similar to what B-man shows.

3. Cut the whole exhaust manifold off completely to lighten the intake and have better airflow around it.

Most of my question revolves around if there is much of any benefit to this? My FB has just block off plats at the gasket and the intake still gets plenty hot but not boiling the gas out anymore. I would like to know if that David Vizard guy says if there is a sweet spot to for intake temps. I would also like to see what temps an intake runs with the exhaust cross over blocked. I need to purchase a IR temp gun.


I'm familiar with that old butterfly valve. When I was a kid that was the first thing to go in my pursuit for speed.

I'm confused about what the exhaust manifolds have anything to do with water or the intake manifold? The intake is going to get hot, just not as hot, or as fast.

[Ed Fitzgerald]

The modified water crossover plumbing should be such that the one side is fed from the return from the heater core and the other side just returns to the water crossover up front. In essence you have put the new manifold water crossover in the path of the return from the heater core. Ed

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

I'm confused about what the exhaust manifolds have anything to do with water or the intake manifold? The intake is going to get hot, just not as hot, or as fast.

We are talking about the exhaust crossover in the intake not the exhaust manifolds.