[Keith Seymore]

I would loose install the core support to the frame and then install each fender individually, inner fenders already attached to the outer.

That's how the factory did it (most of them, anyway) one per minute.

K

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I would loose install the core support to the frame and then install each fender individually, inner fenders already attached to the outer.

That's how the factory did it (most of them, anyway) one per minute.

K

This is more than you wanted answered, but I will throw it out anyway.
I do those the same way as Keith described. And to make everything easier, just loosely start all of the inner to outer fender bolts. Have the front wheels off and the weight on jack stands under the sway bar brackets. That eliminates any sag on the front and will let you align the fenders and radiator support with no resistance. For some reason some guys think this won't work and want to do it the hard way and fight the tires. It's worked for me for 40 years.
Drop the fender on and start upper rear and upper front bolts so it will hang. Go underneath and start the bolts from the inner fender to lower firewall brace. Now start ALL other bolts that hold fender on.
The first place to align/shim and lock down is the upper fender at the cowl, the bolt inside the top corner of the door. Leave the other uppers loose until later. Next align and lock down the fender bolt at the rocker. Now you should have a decent door gap.
Put the cowl panel on and align the fender height to match at the cowl panel, using shims. Again, leave slightly loose. Bolt hood hinges on, then hood.
Leave the hood striker off and start the panel alignment fun! (I won't go into hood hinge alignment here, it's been well described elsewhere).
Start with aligning the hood to cowl, getting the hood centered between the fenders. Move your radiator support sideways to get straight side gaps, keeping in mind there is a little play at the the upper front fender bolts. What you want to do is get all 4 upper corners aligned, then tighten the remaining fender to cowl bolts. Next tighten the inner fender to lower core upper core support bolts, followed by upper fender to upper core support bolts. Now tighten core support to frame horns. If you see the heel (section in front of rocker) of the fender wanting to bulge out or in, you need to adjust the core support height on that side to take that stress off. Otherwise you will have bad gaps at your rocker trim and door edge.
If after getting the support bolted down tight and you find the front hood gaps are off, just loosen and shift the support to correct it, then tighten.
Now, assuming the fender fits
1. at the door edge
2. at the the rocker edge
3. the cowl panel
4. the hood side,
you can now tighten the rest of the bolts. Having those tight in the beginning will make fender movement and alignment extremely difficult.
Now, adjust side hood bumpers to set side height on the hood. Lastly, install and adjust hood center striker.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

This is more than you wanted answered, but I will throw it out anyway....

This is exactly correct. Very nice writeup.

I installed the front fenders on about 1.2 million Chevy pickups, Blazers and Suburbans and that's (essentially) how it was done.

K

[Tempest]

Thanks for sharing that with us Steve.

I will be referring to that when I reassemble my 64. It has been bookmarked.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Tempest

Thanks for sharing that with us Steve.

I will be referring to that when I reassemble my 64. It has been bookmarked.

You're welcome, Lee. Get up with me if you have any questions. How is that 64 convertible progressing? Send some more pictures some time, it's been a while.

Steve