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#1
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is this the correct plug and can someone explain how is it mounted?..seam sealered in?..a photo of an original would be a bonus but I need to get it installed...also I can post some better photos but I have this one lone connector(extreme left) coming out of my underdash wiring..does anyone know anything about it??...also if any one needs a 100mph speedo & oil/volt gauges (MINT) and a later pod for a RALLY GAUGE setup...LMK..just pay ship...I also have a new M&H complete tach. wire set up for an H.E.I. distributor and a repop FORMULA underhood light if someone needs it..pay ship
Last edited by transam1972; 06-27-2015 at 12:01 PM. |
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#2
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I believe the original plugs had a slight interference fit and seam sealer. 40 years on the repop makers just guess at the size and that is what you get! You could try expanding the plug a little and lots of 3M body sealer. Or search for a larger plug.
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#3
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so locally there have been some free car shows (assorted makes & models) in Toms River N.J....POINT IS I have not seen other cars in who knows how long...but after seeing a 1973 MACH 1 and a 1969 AM X and other non GM...boy,my boy..do I appreciate not only how well built the 1970-73 Firebird is built better than the competition..I always have said GM was better but I had forgotten what a piece of junk a Mustang really is...gorgeous looking car though...you really see the difference when looking at the engine compartments of these non GM vehicles..also poor interiors..even the first F body puts its competitors to shame...so I just felt I needed to point this out...our cars (really the 1970 -74) put these other "classics" to shame...and let us not forget the big brother A-body..just mo
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#4
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RAM AIR got first dibs on the trim rings,...sorry to anyone else who wanted them..unless I just sent one trim ring to each person..I do not think RAM AIR would appreciate that...I will post photos of the rings and send them to you RAM AIR..when you get them and you are happy you can send a check cause that's how I roll...will post ASAP thanks!!
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#5
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Quote:
I thought you meant the wheels. I don't need just trim rings, thanks anyway |
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#6
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Glenn,
I thought you meant the wheels also, but if I was next in line, I would take the trim rings instead. Have a set of Honeys that could use them. Let me know by PM. thanks |
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#7
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....no problem RAM AIR..GREGGDOGG, you were next in line and since you know that they are trim rings you are the runner up..our lucky winner so to speak...actually just PM me your address...since they are ready to go (as soon as I get to the post office)..NORWOOD always says good karma so you can have them...just reimburse the shipping (I will send them snail mail on the cheap) peace...G
Last edited by transam1972; 09-05-2015 at 03:19 PM. |
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
http://www.starspangledbannerchallenge.com/ |
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#9
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In Glenn's memory....Godspeed on next journey!!
__________________
Mike/Illinois |
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#10
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Amen, I just read most of his thread on this car, it's too bad he never got to see it though.
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#11
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Ok. Now that TA is safely tuck in my buddy's garage, he and I have had some time to go through whats there and whats not. The shaker and air cleaner are missing and by Glenn's earlier posts saying it was at a shop getting painted, I am thinking he never got it back. Luckily I have an extra 72 scoop laying in extra parts that I have accumulated over the years, it just needed a little love lol. There is some window trim missing along with some other odds and ends. Other than the air cleaner base and some choke pull off parts I think I probably have most of what will be needed to finish. There is NOS weatherstrip with the car though is seems to have some wrinkles. The plan for the car is to take all of the bracketry from a pair of 70 FB fenders that I have and spotweld them in to the later NOS ones with the car, clean and install the original hood and nose. Since we don't know what brand or type of paint is on the car (though I think some is probably rattle can) we will sand it down, fix obvious dings then coat in 2 part epoxy and block out. First thing to do is get the car running, which I am in the process of doing. I cleaned out the gas tank and installed a good used sending unit I had and bolted back in the car. I put the belts on and checked the firing order and bolted the distributor in. It looks like some wiring was replaced on the car, which may be why I have no starter signal, wipers or rear lights. I do have a voltmeter, heater fan, and radio working.I need to check the neutral safety switch and other components. If anyone has a start circuit wiring schematic for a 72 It would be helpful and appreciated. On another note, we tracked down the original owner. She moved a couple years ago and is in her eighties. She said the car was her husband's and does recall the dealer installing the SR block some time around late 73 or so. She couldn't remember why the rear axle was replaced. If anyone has a schematic or any under dash wiring pics, I would really appreciate it. Once we make some progress I will post some pics. Hopefully we can make Glenn proud and finish what he started. Here is a pic of the 72 shaker that had some broken edges so I ground the damage down and applied Dynahair and reshaped the finished off with some glaze filler. I still need to strip the paint and spray epoxy then block sand out. Sorry for the long winded post lol
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#12
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Congrats to the new owner, and I look forward to seeing Glenn's dream realized.
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#13
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Nice work on shaker! What's it look like underneath?
Not sure what route you're taking the restoration. But, I was told the repop air cleaners are very good. I went with a restored original on my 71. But, it was not an easy job. 3 Air cleaners to make one. Haha. Let us know what trim pieces are missing. Always have extra after the restoration process and can help guide you in the right direction. Just remember on a 4 speed the switch for reverse are different than the auto neutral switch.
__________________
Mike/Illinois |
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#14
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Quote:
uses the same heavy gauge double purple (at least for 1970) wire, but with a four foot long extension to re-route it over the column to the clutch saftey switch...
__________________
1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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#15
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.
Thanks. The shaker looks good underneath, just needs some paint work. The flapper door and bracket is in good shape nut needs a solenoid kit. I think most likely the aftermarket housing will be the route we go unless one pops up. I worked on the car a little today for about an hour. I found that the neutral safety switch wasn't connecting so I jumped it out temporarily. Next I found that the starter signal wire was bolted to the R terminal on the starter instead of the S terminal. I dropped the starter and fixed that problem. Once the motor was turning, I determined there was a timing issue and found the distributor to be 180 degrees out. I pulled it out and turned it to where it should be and the car started right up. It sound really good for sitting for so long. I let it run for 5 minutes then shut it down since I had to go. Next project is to set timing, plug some vacuum leaks and try moving it on its own power. |
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#16
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Here is a pic with the braces out and no damage to skins.
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#17
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Now for the tedious part. I took the NOS later style fenders and identified all of the spotwelds on their top braces and front upper brackets. This part would prove to need a little finesse since I planned to cut the spotwelds on the braces from behind to avoid putting any holes in the fender skins. I was only able to use the drill for a few welds on each fender, the rest had to be carefully ground down through the thicker bracket without harming the fender skins
For this I used a 1/2 x 18" belt sander made for cutting spotwelds. I used 40 grit belts on it. Carefully I ground the welds from behind and slowly separated the braces and front brackets with the panel splitter. I did cut a piece out of the top braces where the front bolt holes are to give a little easier access for the seam splitter. These newer braces are getting tossed anyway so I wasn't worried about saving them for anything. Braces came out with no holes in skins. Now I need to clean up the earlier braces and spot weld them into the NOS fenders. |
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#18
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A quick update: I stripped the reworked fenders completely down to bare metal and skimmed the areas where I welded up the flare holes, along with fixing a few obvious dings with filler . I then primed them both with 2 part epoxy. They will be block sanded down the road in the near future. I also removed the components from the endura bumper and sandblasted a couple layers of paint off. There are several cracks here and there that need repairing, so I will be working on repairing that and fitting the fenders.
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