[carpoor]

It's a hydraulic flat tappet, Melling 067 replacement. I was there for the short block assembly/cam install. That all went together correctly. I need to go back and see what studs Butler Performance installed. I may just yank the poly locks and and go back to the original style crimp nuts.

[HWYSTR455]

I suggest properly adjusting the valve train before moving forward with anything else. Going to the stock nuts is a move backwards, and makes me think the current adjustment is incorrect.

Explain how the valve train was adjusted, maybe that will help determine what could be suggested as a next step.

.

[johnta1]

I would say the majority of the time it is the adjustment is too tight for the hydraulic lifters.
(most keep tightening when the lifter keeps 'collapsing' and eventually when it starts the lifter pumps up keeping the valves open)

Try just backing each rocker off a turn, then try running it.

When running use some rocker arm deflectors and adjust while running.
(back off until it clatters then tighten until it just stops, then maybe a 1/4 to 1/4 turn more)

[carpoor]

Went through some of the paperwork, these are the studs...

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7101/

I need to see if we have an old valve cover I can cut up. I'd like to back them all off and adjust them running.

[HWYSTR455]

The studs really don't matter that much, and a cold adjustment is fine. You can do it while running, but it makes a mess.

Just rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar, and as the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake valve/rocker. As you rotate and the intake opens, and then is almost all the way closed, adjust the exhaust valve/rocker. Go one at a time until all are done.

To adjust, slow turn the poly lock until all the slack is taken out and NOT compressing the plunger (zero lash), then give it a half a turn. You can spin the pushrod between your fingers to feel when you've reached zero lash.

.

[johnta1]

Just rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar, and as the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake valve/rocker. As you rotate and the intake opens, and then is almost all the way closed, adjust the exhaust valve/rocker. Go one at a time until all are done.

To adjust, slow turn the poly lock until all the slack is taken out and NOT compressing the plunger (zero lash), then give it a half a turn. You can spin the pushrod between your fingers to feel when you've reached zero lash.

Running it is messy sometimes.
(but I think more accurate)



Valve Adjustment

[johnta1]

Forgot about this method!

Start with all the rockers really loose. Adjust all rockers to zero lash. Rotate crank 360 degrees and tighten to zero lash any loose rockers. Then just add a 1/2 turn to each rocker nut, and voilá, done deal.