[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I've installed a lot of master cylinders,clutch and brake,production cars and assembling circle track cars.
I'd tell how I easily bleed them, but I know I'm going to take a beating from all over the place.
No tools or special equipment/fittings required,no bench bleed, only the tools it took to remove the old one and an assistant for a few minutes.

And if you ever saw or heard of someone getting shot in the face with the bench bleed kits they use to provide, you'd know some lawsuit eliminated including them.

[mgarblik]

I work by myself almost all the time and do allot of brake work. What works well for me is to bench bleed the master cylinder with the kit provided. If no kit, I cover the ports with my fingers and slowly push the piston about 1/2 inch, The fluid will push my fingers off the ports, then I make sure my fingers seal the ports when I return the piston to rest. I do this 10-15 times and that is usually enough. Does make a bit of a mess, so have your towels ready. The kit deal is better. Once on the car, I use the vacuum bleeder in the order recommended for the particular system. Usually, for a front/rear split system it's, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. For most but not all diagonal split systems, it's right rear, left front, left rear, right front. As far as the little bubbles in the clear hose: Once you have had good flow from the calipers or wheel cylinders, take the vacuum bleeder off and just let it bleed with the bleeder open, gravity bleed. I usually count 50 drips into the pan at each wheel. Close the bleeders and your done. This works 90% of the time for me. Sometimes, you just have to have a helper work with you and manually bleed the system.