[ho421]

You'd have to call larry for an update but if my memory serves me, around 230/per hub plus the ride. Included bearings and races but he did not touch the front side of the drums. I beaded them myself. Im sure you will be pleased with the results regardless who you use.

[barrierblue66]

I'll ring him. Curious to know the detail of his process. Thanks.

[Ragtop Man]

If anyone in the thread would have a drum they could donate to science, please send an email to me at [email protected].

A very close friend of mine is a muckety muck in the remanufacturing industry. (He is a nut job car freak as well, with a pair of 442's - one a drop dead survivor, so he is solid.)

We have discussed some new technology in the business that is a bit pricey as we speak, but only from a 'volume' (vs. collector/restorer) perspective.

The idea would be to identify a Detroit area vendor, present the evidence, and discuss what could be done and the cost. No promises yet - it is feasible but far from funded.

But even little businesses start somewhere. Thanks in advance!

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by Ragtop Man

But even little businesses start somewhere.

...I think I am going to add that to my signature! (Mine was in my basement)

BTT, I wouldn't let $ drive the decision. I haven't (yet) used either company - (if I can push a couple dozen PY-ers to the RediRad-buying side of the fence, that will change) - Anyway, I suggest that you ask each place:
- HOW they do what they do,
- what their failure / return rate is today (growing pains don't count, IMO)
- How many customers do they have
- how many REPEAT customers they have
- Do they have high-mile references available?

And FWIW, my sincere plan is to order both a front and a rear from each of these shops for my '62 Bonneville, drive the tires off it and report my experiences. One vendor's product on one side, the other on the other.

[barrierblue66]

Originally Posted by ho421

he did not touch the front side of the drums. I beaded them myself. Im sure you will be pleased with the results regardless who you use.

Don said painting is part of their default process. Opting out will not save you much, but will do whatever you want (or don't. The shot blasting is done by default so they can start off with a clean drum.

[ho421]

Originally Posted by barrierblue66

Don said painting is part of their default process. Opting out will not save you much, but will do whatever you want (or don't. The shot blasting is done by default so they can start off with a clean drum.

Guess i should add... they liked the patina on my drums so i only did a light bead cleanup on them at 30-35psi. Since mine are on a 63, natural aluminum was the way they came. No paint = no chance of paint peel.

[barrierblue66]

Originally Posted by ho421

Guess i should add... they liked the patina on my drums so i only did a light bead cleanup on them at 30-35psi. Since mine are on a 63, natural aluminum was the way they came. No paint = no chance of paint peel.

Gotcha. I would also like to leave my drums as is and not paint them. They are currently painted silver and even though on a '66 I like the look.

[mgarblik]

I talked to both of the companies at Norwalk. It's interesting to note that they each have a very different way of performing the reline process. J & G mechanically attaches the liner to the aluminum drum with screws and then machines them off of course. Z & L glues them in with a special Locktite product. J & D have some of their drums actually out there racing in vintage road racing, (non-Pontiacs), Not sure if all or most of the ones Z & L have done just move the car off the trailer and on to the show field. If the used drums you have still have lots of original liner material, you may want to have them carefully machined, have a new set of shoes arched and give them a try. You never know, you may be one of the lucky ones with a good set. I have owned probably a 4 sets of 8 lugs and finally I have a nice set on a car. They are still original. If you decide to try and machine your existing drums, I recommend machining them with the steel wheels torqued to specs. while machining. It really makes a difference. Please post up what you decide to do.

[barrierblue66]

I am going with J&G. I liked the fact that they will do a total inspection and rebuild of the 50 year old drums. I have the classic corrosion in between the liner and drum, and the symptoms to go with that. A few times around the block and the shuddering was nasty. I can see where there are hot spots forming on the liners because the heat is not transferring to the drum. Nothing to do but install the arced shoes and bolt on the drum. New races, bearings and seals. The rear drums do not exhibit the corrosion, probably because the front supplies so much more braking to the car.

I drive my cars, and want to be comfortable doing a 1000+ mile trip. Hopefully I will have a good experience. Stay tuned. I'll have an update in about 4 weeks.

[mgarblik]

Please report back. I think you are really going to love them once you get a good set on the car. My 62 Catalina has a good set and 15" wheels and radial tires. It really stops well, probably the best 4 wheel drum brake car I have ever owned. Much better than my 68 Firebird with 4 wheel drums.