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Old 03-26-2016, 11:05 PM
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I got a lot of cleaning and prep done today. For tonight will mostly concentrate on the short block.

Obviously an aftermarket block is required. Not as obviously Iron blocks make more power than aluminum blocks. It's the way it is. I know there are some that I believe or fantasize about one brand of aftermarket block that makes just as much power in aluminum as Iron blocks do. That's just not going to happen.

Just because an aftermarket bought cost $3000 does not mean it's ready to run for an engine like this. I can tell you to absolutely expect to pay another $2000 in machine work. And the block will need a lot of prep. Big camp tunnels but a big lifters with bushings are required. You're not getting anywhere near this power level without it.

The block I am running has been repaired a couple of times unfortunately. It's all part of the deal though. EVERYONE running at this level has had engine failures for one reason or another. Sometimes parts just break. If you have to save for 10 years to build an engine like this you should probably not build an engine like this. It's going to require maintenance and parts are going to break.
If you're not handy unable to fabricate, weld, use instruments and assemble engines this is going to get extremely expensive. It's time-consuming and tedious work. And the parts are expensive. If you're paying someone else to do that for you expect it to cost a lot.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:10 PM
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Theres a couple bearing issues we have had to deal with and find ways of overcoming. The first is when you use a crankshaft with large radius ground into them you can have an issue at the rear main bearing. That's caught us once a couple years ago early and a Dyno session. Basically you want to grind about .030 off the very end/rear section of the main bearing to make sure there's plenty of clearance for the large radius. The second modification is drilling a secondary oiling hall at about 8 o'clock position to deposit more oil. This also requires trenching out behind the main bearing to connect to the oil hole.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:12 PM
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Radius area
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:14 PM
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And as far as crankshafts go. You can try with a Chinese forging. Shorter stroke and less RPM you might get away with it. Good luck if you try.

You're looking at a $3000 plus crankshaft. Its probably going to need some additional prep work. Just saying.

As far as oil clearance goes we are running .0033- .0034 mains and rods. We tried running les to control oil more. The engine did not like it. So we increased clearance.

This crank is a Bryant. It has A Micro polished finish.
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Last edited by mike leech; 03-26-2016 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:29 PM
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As far as connecting rods go, obviously steel or aluminum are the choices. At least for us normal people.

These rods are Carrillo customs. Where most people go wrong is they think they can just run a shelf part and save money. That is likely all they will accomplish, saving money. The rod should be configured as long as possible for an application like this. these steel rods weigh the same as the aluminum rods we used to run. Double the cost for five times the life.

We also feel these rods are worth some power in our application. As with all the parts Scott Brown specified and worked with Carrillo on the design for this application.

And yes those are coated pins. Try not to get it all over yourself Stan. It's one of the few places there are coatings in this engine.
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Last edited by mike leech; 03-26-2016 at 11:36 PM.
  #6  
Old 03-27-2016, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike leech View Post
... These rods are Carrillo customs...
I had never seen that configuration of sides of the big ends. Is the main purpose to increase lube flow out of the journal/bearing to carry away heat better? Can you run less side clearance because of it? Does this design have much of a "track record" of success? Thanks.

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Old 03-27-2016, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Gifford View Post
I had never seen that configuration of sides of the big ends. Is the main purpose to increase lube flow out of the journal/bearing to carry away heat better? Can you run less side clearance because of it? Does this design have much of a "track record" of success? Thanks.
Lighter and carries heat out with lighter oils. Pro-stock and comp. parts like these i would not have were it not for my good friend scotty brown. Hes a bad dude with lots of connections.

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Old 03-27-2016, 09:43 AM
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Tom Vaught Tom Vaught is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Gifford View Post
I had never seen that configuration of sides of the big ends. Is the main purpose to increase lube flow out of the journal/bearing to carry away heat better? Can you run less side clearance because of it? Does this design have much of a "track record" of success? Thanks.
We did some Bearing/Rod testing one time, Jack, in our "Components Lab" with full instrumentation of the connecting rod bearing and the oil flow.

It was truly amazing how the bearing temp number "grew" as the RPM the bearing saw increased. The oil and temp at the bearing surface massively increased for a doubling bearing journal speed.

We tried the different oil feed locations in the bearing and found that once you had the hydrodynamic film established it was just a matter of keeping the flow volume proper as the rpm increased.

Allowing the hot oil out of the rod bearing was studied and spacers similar to the rod mods Mike has made helped remove the oil both between the rods and on the side closest to the crank fillets. You could remove the oil on both sides of the rod (even with a "paired rod" set-up). I like your Carrillo rod mods better than our spacer deal.

Nice Job, Mike. You are making a lot of good decisions here obviously.

Tom V.

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  #9  
Old 04-01-2016, 01:14 AM
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...Can you run less side clearance because of it?...[The oil-escape passages on the sides of the rods' big ends]
???

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  #10  
Old 03-27-2016, 09:12 AM
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The second modification is drilling a secondary oiling hall at about 8 o'clock position to deposit more oil. This also requires trenching out behind the main bearing to connect to the oil hole.
I noticed the second hole in the first picture posted. Would you post a picture of the trench that connects the oil feed holes?

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Old 03-27-2016, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 455firebird1969 View Post
I noticed the second hole in the first picture posted. Would you post a picture of the trench that connects the oil feed holes?
Crank is in. But i have some old bearings

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Last edited by mike leech; 03-27-2016 at 09:51 AM.
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