[v869tr6]

Originally Posted by Marty Palbykin

The heads lift under boost so the rings needs to float somewhat.
That is key to how they function. ( more pressure more seal)
You can plumb a water block for street cooling if needed, although it was made for a race only application.

Marty, did your factory block have water in it or did the alcohol do the cooling?
Wondering if I could plug all the holes in a factory block and even the E-heads and do some reverse cooling.

[Marty Palbykin]

Originally Posted by v869tr6

Marty, did your factory block have water in it or did the alcohol do the cooling?
Wondering if I could plug all the holes in a factory block and even the E-heads and do some reverse cooling.

On my block we used both water and alcohol. ( we found the water was not necessary)

Yes we did that on Scott Schraders street car.

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by v869tr6

Wondering if I could plug all the holes in a factory block and even the E-heads and do some reverse cooling.

Just a thought, but IMO you could likely stay wet deck IF you countersink the block/head water holes slightly and use either rubber o rings or Right Stuff.
Water isnt very likely to get past Martys rings if you managed a water leak, and water pressure is unlikely to get high enough to blow out o-rings or Right Stuff. (I havent used water neck gaskets in years, just RTV. No issues.)

[60man]

I had the "Tiger Mod" done on my Tigers.
But I'm not boosted but run 14.8 CR.
Seems to be working.
Maybe next combo.

[v869tr6]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

Just a thought, but IMO you could likely stay wet deck IF you countersink the block/head water holes slightly and use either rubber o rings or Right Stuff.
Water isnt very likely to get past Martys rings if you managed a water leak, and water pressure is unlikely to get high enough to blow out o-rings or Right Stuff. (I havent used water neck gaskets in years, just RTV. No issues.)

Thanks Bruce and Tom seems like a good idea, how far do the sealing rings stick up above the deck?