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#1
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Maybe I'm living on borrowed time. I reused mine in about 1980. If I had $1 for every time I've dumped the clutch or speed shifted I'd be rich.
Great explanation on lubricant on the bolts though. I believe A fine threaded bolt will yeald a stronger clamping force than a coarse threaded bolt using the same torque. Use a torque wrench. I have a question. Can loc-tight act as a lubricant? |
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#2
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Quote:
In theory you could perhaps (maybe) prove the loctite thing by installing a new dry bolt and torquing it to spec. Draw a line on the head of the bolt and extend the line onto the part it's mating to after torquing. Try repeating this procedure to make sure the line on the bolt and mating part continuously line up after torquing. There probably will be small variation. Then apply loctite to the bolt and re-torque to the same amount and see if the lines still line up. If not, you know that loctite changes things. This won't be perfect science. When I did this kind of stuff in college we had a press with double acting cylinders, pressure gauges and a jig to test the actual loading from a given torque. Last, but not least even after all of this applied science, I'm still of the belief that there is little chance you will have a failure with used bolts. I say that only because back in the day our cars were built, most things were designed with a safety factor of 2X, but I can't argue with the logic that it's $10 worth of bolts to avoid a possible failure. OJ |
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#3
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When the ring gear bolts were installed and stretched the same would have happened to the ring gear threads themselves distorting them. Over many years of use they would probably stretch / distort even more. Seems to only make sense if your going to start fresh, a set of new bolts would insure the best match to each..
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#4
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__________________
1968 Firebird 400 RAII M21, 3.31 12 bolt, Mayfair Maize. 1977 Trans Am W72 400, TH350, 3.23 T Top Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. Bill Nye. |
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