[HWYSTR455]

So the inertia switch from the Crown Vic is a little too sensitive for my taste, think a big bump in the road would trigger it. I will have to order a Mustang one and see if that works or not.

I finished out the amp mounting board, and included the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Once I find a suitable inertia switch, I will figure out where to mount and work it into the harness I made.

I'll get the amp board, rear deck with enclosures mounted this weekend and provide some pics. The pic of the amp board here is when it was almost done, and have to forgive the background mess!

My car from the factory used a felt trunk mat, that only covers 2/3rds of the trunk floor, which I don't particularly care for. So I purchased one that was for a Cutlass, which is full size, 2 piece, and made out of the typical rubber used on some earlier years.

The Cutlass one overlaps the trunk drop offs, but due to the pinch welds in the 68-72 A-bodies, the mat has to be trimmed to lay level. It also covers the area on the rear ledge and hides the tail lamp harness.

@ time spent on above efforts = 6 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Amp board - 0
* Trunk Mat Fitting and Install - 0
* TOTAL Score - 0

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
*Amp board build - 2
*Trunk Mat install - 1

[Squidward]

Love the scoring! Busted knuckles score... It's like playing a fight game - "...extreme destruction score multiplier" and "Ultimate death move score bonus". But you have to say all that in the right voice, like the guy who does the radio spots for monster truck events: "Sunday, Sunday, Sunday!"

[HWYSTR455]

Heh-heh! Yeah, I figured it would add a little humor!

Got the bumper hung, did all the light housings, cleaned, sprayed reflective paint on them, mounted, and did the plate light and holder. One thing on the repop bumper is that the brackets, the area that the light housings bolt to, were off, the gaps were different from side to side, so have to wobb out the holes to even it out. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning.

@ time spent on above effort = 3 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Bumper build out and Install - .5 (minor abrasions)
* TOTAL Score - .5

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
Light Housing Adjustments - 1
Bumper Hanging - 2 (Care was taking to not damage paint)


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[Hunter98TA]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Heh-heh! Yeah, I figured it would add a little humor!

Got the bumper hung, did all the light housings, cleaned, sprayed reflective paint on them, mounted, and did the plate light and holder. One thing on the repop bumper is that the brackets, the area that the light housings bolt to, were off, the gaps were different from side to side, so have to wobb out the holes to even it out. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning.

@ time spent on above effort = 3 hrs

Busted Knuckle Physical Damage Score: (1-5 scale)
* Bumper build out and Install - .5 (minor abrasions)
* TOTAL Score - .5

Difficulty Scale of Work Performed: (0-10 scale)
Light Housing Adjustments - 1
Bumper Hanging - 2 (Care was taking to not damage paint)


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Is the bumper original or repo? I'd like to see some pics so I can see how it lines up. Mine is a repo from Ames and I'm not sure how the gaps should be.

[HWYSTR455]

It's an Ames bumper. Which gaps do you mean? The ones I'm talking about are the gaps towards the center of the bumper between the tail light housings and the bumper itself. The driver side was off by about 1/4-1/3 inch, the gap was larger than the passenger side.

There's 3 bolts on each that hold the light housing on the bumper, and 2 alignment studs (plastic) on the housing. Those go into the brackets that bolt to the bumper, and those I had to enlarge to close the gap. It allowed me to move the housing towards the center of the car more.

As for the rest of the bumper, if I'm going to be picky, all along the very edge of the bumper, there are grind/file marks where it was cleaned up before it was chromed, and it's kind of rough. It could have easily been made smooth with just a little extra work. But I think even the factory ones looked that way.

As for shape, the contours, and overall shape of the bumper is good-very good, and the ends are formed as they should be. There were no twists in the one I have, and the ends are not too far in or out. They are even side to side.

If you look at the one shot of the bumper on the car, at the lenses, you can see there's still about a <1/4 inch gap difference. It's so close though you kind of have to stare at it, and only reason I notice is because I know what I'm looking at/for.

EDIT: Guess it would help if I added the pics! Thought I had done that!

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