[thews]

Originally Posted by RAJ7395

Real 69 TA rear wings in decent shape are expensive and hard to come by so I understand why it doesn't have one. Still, I would've installed a correct looking reproduction at least.

Not sure what you guys see that I don't. What's wrong with the rear wing?

[tom s]

is it the photos or do the stripes look too dark?Still a buy where its at.Tom

[FireJudge]

I just spoke to the owner. The car was painted 8 years ago. Before he owned it. He agrees the stripes are way to dark. The motor is a 68 GTO motor but he does not know what code it is or what heads are on it. Also does not know what year the transmission is. He agrees the spoiler is an aftermarket but has no idea why. Claims it has all original sheet metal and floors. He was a nice guy with a British accent.

[FASTASSBIRD]

My guess was 75k. Guess I wasn't to far off or 75k with a good real spoiler lol

[FireJudge]

Something does not smell right with this NO Reserve auction. I was following it and with 2 hours to go the bid jumped 24K! 24K on a NO Reserve Auction! The last 2 bids were by people who had never bid on anything on Ebay before.

[frankyboy455]

If it reappears on the market with a few weeks/months, that will mean you were right.

[FASTASSBIRD]

I don't really think anyone fell for it to be honest. Great car good pedigree reasonably priced.

[1969 Ram Air]

Originally Posted by FireJudge

Something does not smell right with this NO Reserve auction. I was following it and with 2 hours to go the bid jumped 24K! 24K on a NO Reserve Auction! The last 2 bids were by people who had never bid on anything on Ebay before.

That's typical eBay shill bidding. The seller probably got his friends to bid it up. If they end up with the high bid, all he has to do is re-list the car.

[thews]

Originally Posted by 1969 Ram Air

That's typical eBay shill bidding. The seller probably got his friends to bid it up. If they end up with the high bid, all he has to do is re-list the car.

I don't think so. If you look at the selling history he's sold a lot of cars with positive feedback. $75K is fair market value for the car in the condition it's in. I thought it was odd he didn't know what engine code was in it, but I think this was legit.

[FirebirdHank]

It's not unusual for the bidding to bounce way up in the last couple of minutes. There are internet "e-bay sniper" sites that will enter your bid at the last possible moment. That high bid could have been entered for a while but there was no opposing bid to drive it up.

[1969 Ram Air]

Originally Posted by thews

I don't think so. If you look at the selling history he's sold a lot of cars with positive feedback. $75K is fair market value for the car in the condition it's in. I thought it was odd he didn't know what engine code was in it, but I think this was legit.

You're probably right. Someone else on this site made the comment "The last 2 bids were by people who had never bid on anything on Ebay before" but this doesn't appear to be the case.

[thews]

Hey all,

Just wanted to drop some knowledge if any of you are interested. I’ve been on eBay since 2003 and sold a lot of stuff with a 100% positive rating. If you’re interested read on, if you’re not interested in ebay, nothing else to see here.

Selling:

I’m currently selling some extra parts I have. By “extra parts” it means stuff I’ve been hoarding since the 80’s. I recently sold a steering wheel to Germany to a guy who owns a 79 Formula. What a cool car to have in Germany. It was near perfect. I used to comb junkyards in the 80’s and 90’s and when I found cool stuff I’d buy it and sell by listing in the back of High Performance Pontiac magazine.

On one trip to the junkyard, I was there at “Pick-A-Part” on Wednesday in Riverside CA when they put a white 68 Lemans with a red interior out. It was a beautiful car and I love red interiors, so I took most of it. I still have it and it’s mint, but I don’t need it and I’ll probably never own a 68 GTO so I’m going to sell it. Here’s what I’ve learned about selling.

1) Get an eBay and Paypal account if you don’t have one.
2) Set up the ad.
3) Only accept Paypal.
4) List it as a 30 day “Buy-It-Now” auction. If you list it with a reserve, it costs a ton more.
5) For most parts, your “Buy-it-Now” price is $50 higher than your true bottom line.
6) If you get an offer, it will typically be $25 less than your BIN price if it’s priced right. If they balk, you can counter a low bid with your true bottom line.
7) Set up an account with both UPS and the Post office.
8) Measure and weigh the package and mark the dimension and weight on the bottom of the package. Box it up with some good shipping material. What I’ve found works the best is old carpet padding. When shipping heads or a transmission it’s perfect to ship. Have it in the box, but don’t tape it closed. You may need to take it out if someone asks for a picture or more detail. If it doesn't sell, you won't have to measure it and weigh it again in 6 months when you try and resell it.
9) When setting up the ad, define shipping as actual. How this works is someone buys your part and clicks on shipping. They punch in their zip code and it gives them shipping cost, which they pay for and often you pay less than they do and you pocket the different (about 10% shipping discount). You then get the e-mail that someone has bought your item and it’s been paid for, but ensure the shipping has already been paid for and how much it is. You then punch in the dimensions and weight and pick between the post office and UPS. The Post Office is often cheaper and it’s closer to me. Once you find the cheapest method, pay for the shipping and then print out the shipping label. Print it out and tape the item closed with the shipping label on top. The next day (you have to always be fast), just drop it off. Most small shipping outlets you can just drop the box off and leave… takes about 15 seconds.
10) If you sell it to someone outside the US, the label reflects that and the extra cost. Once you sell it, the printing of the label reflects the extra cost, but the buyer already paid for it. The steering wheel I shipping to Germany cost over $60. I don’t care, they paid for it, so I printed the label, but it in the box and it got there just fine.
11) Always start a 10 day auction on Thursday at about 9 AM. This will end on Sunday at about 9AM. Most people are home on Sunday at 9AM and it's had two full weekends to be viewed, so they’ll bid at the last second if they’re watching your item. For 30 day auctions it doesn’t really matter when you start it, but it should end no later than 7PM.

Tips

1) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT…sorry, just adding drama with caps to emphasize. Always, and I mean always be as honest as possible. If you have a dash insert that has one tiny crack that you can’t even see, take a close-up of and point it out. You don’t want to flower up anything, just be very accurate in your description and always use all of your picture spaces (I think you can list 12 for free). You may want to invest in a cheap camera instead of your phone. Always pick the highest resolution, because it doesn't matter how big the file is. When they zoom in on the picture, the more resolution the better.

2) When eBay runs a sale on listing fees, accept the invite and put up all the stuff you have that didn’t sell before. It’s all in your history, so it’s for all intent and purposes free to run again, or at least at a minimal cost with little effort. It's fun to watch your stuff sell.

3) Don’t accept returns. I have some rare stuff, and there are people that want it to study it and send it back. If I sell something and they find a flaw I didn’t provide and should have, I will pay for return shipping. If it’s someone buying something in ok condition and pissed off it’s not NOS, I won’t, but truth be told, if they threaten to file a negative response, if you sell enough it may be worth sucking up the cost. I have not received a negative feedback, but I have given them. It’s only as a last resort after numerous attempts to return the item and just get my money back.

Good luck if you have stuff to sell. That red steering wheel found a really good home and I’m happy about that. It’s better than it gathering dust in my crawlspace until I kick it and my son chucks it in the trash.

BTW, buying is a whole different game and I typically place my last bid with 15 seconds left. It's my top price and if someone wants to counter, they probably won't have time, which is why so many bids come in during the last 15 seconds.

[muscle_collector]

I used to sell a lot of things on ebay. but got pissed about their rules and quit. was going to finally start again and then I hear that you have to take items back even if you specify no returns. I'm just not into that and have a couple of friends who have been parts swapped on the return and ebay doesn't care.

[thews]

Originally Posted by muscle_collector

I used to sell a lot of things on ebay. but got pissed about their rules and quit. was going to finally start again and then I hear that you have to take items back even if you specify no returns. I'm just not into that and have a couple of friends who have been parts swapped on the return and ebay doesn't care.

Not my experience. I have a lot of cool rare stuff and have never had a problem with a sale.

[unruhjonny]

I used to buy and sell on eBay;
Then they jacked all their fees - so now I only buy.

I list stuff in local classifieds, and have actually had good luck selling locally - it sure beats using mail!

[blue71ta]

Originally Posted by muscle_collector

I used to sell a lot of things on ebay. but got pissed about their rules and quit. was going to finally start again and then I hear that you have to take items back even if you specify no returns. I'm just not into that and have a couple of friends who have been parts swapped on the return and ebay doesn't care.

Yep. Even if you list it as "for parts or not working" and specify "no returns", the buyer can still return it. PayPal will refund the money to the buyer without even contacting you first. The buyer can initiate a return without any contact to the seller.

Ebay does nothing to help good sellers and rewards bad buyers. A seller cannot leave negative feedback for a buyer anymore, so you can't warn others of the deadbeats. Not only that, PayPal just raised their fees again! Jacked it up another 0.5%.

Here is an example of a bad buyer. It's an extreme case, but unfortunately, this crap does happen:

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...beware-sellers

I have bought and sold on eBay since 1999. It used to be cheap to sell (around 2%) and you could get strong prices for parts. Now, it costs about 14% between eBay & PP fees and parts that were once hard to find are relatively common. It's probably still the quickest way to sell something, but comes at a cost.

Craigslist is hit or miss. Maybe 1 in 10 people will actually come to look at parts. Get a lot of requests for pics & information, then never hear from them again...

OK, end of rant

[thews]

When you have absolutely no clue...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Pontiac...dYwM5z&vxp=mtr

[unruhjonny]

What is going on with picture#4?
isthat a really poorly hung wrong quarter panel!?!?

[FirebirdHank]

Could that be a '67-'68 panel. It was close enough I guess. It draws attention away from the front fender!

Also it looks like there would be room on that hood for a shaker!

[necdb3]

Originally Posted by FirebirdHank

Could that be a '67-'68 panel. It was close enough I guess. It draws attention away from the front fender!

Also it looks like there would be room on that hood for a shaker!

Looks like a 70 up quarter panel to me. Look at the side marker