[Dragncar]

Leech told me he had to go dry sump at the RPMs he wanted to run. Either that or a lot of time. effort and risk making a pan with serious baffles.
Shifted @8,800 and crossed the line 9K+ I believe. Out of E heads with stock valve location and stock E guides. Safe to say they were maxed out.
I have L jacks old E heads done my Gabby. Flow 408cfm. Mikes went 414 (and Marcella with tell you cfm is only 48% of the answer, I believe him)
Gabby told me the heads will pull to 7500 with a 535 and 7800 with a 505.
Almost the same cfm and Mikes heads had 1000RPM more "pull" to them with a 565 no less.
Tells you its all about the combo. That and 18-1 and a BOP with a ton of work done to it.
Anyway, might want to consider dry sump.

[Tiger Paw]

Build yourself the whizziest oil pan and baffles you can dream up. Put it in your hands full of water then slosh it as hard as hope your car will launch. You might want to wear waders cause your gonna get real wet. now imagine all that sloshing oil gets into a spinning crank and gets thrashed and whipped into a froth. Scrapers help but they are an indirect route to the pickup.

I ran tricked out wet sumps with accusump backup, but they were marginal at best. Put a dry sump in it and forgot about it. Dude you are building one of the coolest badboy Pontiacs out there. You'll be launching and initial accel at 3G's Don't go cheap here. Too risky for your engine, your car and your safety!

Good luck with your car, It looks amazing!

[John Langer]

If you "have" to go dry sump, it's because you have other issues inside of the oil pan...

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by John Langer

If you "have" to go dry sump, it's because you have other issues inside of the oil pan...

Can't disagree on that point, just easier for a lot of people to remove a given amount of oil and put it in a container designed to remove the air and then pump it back into the engine vs having the knowledge to design a pan that will minimize air mixing with the oil, oil running away from the oil pick-up on acceleration and braking, and oil over-temp issues on a given amount of oil vs pumping oil thru a oil cooler (air or water cooled) to a larger volume remote reservoir.
Dry Sumps take more hp typically from the engine but have other benefits as mentioned above.

Not everyone is a John Langer, especially in the Pontiac World.

Tom V.

[John Langer]

It is not just the oil pan. It is also how you drain the oil back, bulkhead mods, crank mods, bearing mods etc...

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Leech told me he had to go dry sump at the RPMs he wanted to run. Either that or a lot of time. effort and risk making a pan with serious baffles.
Shifted @8,800 and crossed the line 9K+ I believe. Out of E heads with stock valve location and stock E guides. Safe to say they were maxed out.
I have L jacks old E heads done my Gabby. Flow 408cfm. Mikes went 414 (and Marcella with tell you cfm is only 48% of the answer, I believe him)
Gabby told me the heads will pull to 7500 with a 535 and 7800 with a 505.
Almost the same cfm and Mikes heads had 1000RPM more "pull" to them with a 565 no less.
Tells you its all about the combo. That and 18-1 and a BOP with a ton of work done to it.
Anyway, might want to consider dry sump.

Maybe you should talk to John Marcella about why those 414 cfm heads pulled 1000 more rpm than someone else's 408 cfm heads will on a 566.

Stan

[Jeff Kinsler]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Maybe you should talk to John Marcella about why those 414 cfm heads pulled 1000 more rpm than someone else's 408 cfm heads will on a 566.

Stan

I shift my new 540 at 8200.