["QUICK-SILVER"]

I'ld run a new wire inside to power the circuit breaker. From battery + post, back of alternator, etc...

From memory, diagrams lost in a computer crash, most power top/power seat cars had a seperate power wire coming off a junction block under the hood. Then going into the back of the fuse box. Seems like it was a heavier guage wire than what goes in for everything else.

I suspect if you try adding power seats to an existing power source under the dash.....you'll have a melt down at the terminals in the bulkhead connector.

Be easy enough to hang your circuit breaker up out of the way. If your circuit breaker doesn't have 1/4" male blades, part stores carry them. then just use 1/4" female spade terminals to attach your wires.

Let us know what you decide to do
Clay

[johnta1]

You did check for power with the key on?

[johnta1]

Here's a fuse box pic:

Are you using the fuse spot at top left in pic?
Also does the spot where the red arrow points to have 12 volts?

[Frank69]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Here's a fuse box pic:

Are you using the fuse spot at top left in pic?
Also does the spot where the red arrow points to have 12 volts?

Spot w/red arrow is dead. one page in the manual says "not used"
I am thinking cars w/ this power eq. have a diff harness.
Tks, Frank 69

[Frank69]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Here's a fuse box pic:

Are you using the fuse spot at top left in pic?
Also does the spot where the red arrow points to have 12 volts?

Yes. dead no power when breaker pluged in.
Red arrow also dead.
Thanks, Frank69

[Frank69]

Originally Posted by johnta1

You did check for power with the key on?

Yes. Key must be on for seat to work.
Thanks, Frank69

[Frank69]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

I'ld run a new wire inside to power the circuit breaker. From battery + post, back of alternator, etc...

From memory, diagrams lost in a computer crash, most power top/power seat cars had a seperate power wire coming off a junction block under the hood. Then going into the back of the fuse box. Seems like it was a heavier guage wire than what goes in for everything else.

I suspect if you try adding power seats to an existing power source under the dash.....you'll have a melt down at the terminals in the bulkhead connector.

Be easy enough to hang your circuit breaker up out of the way. If your circuit breaker doesn't have 1/4" male blades, part stores carry them. then just use 1/4" female spade terminals to attach your wires.

Let us know what you decide to do
Clay

Clay, I agree with new wire option. New wire same size as the wire lead that runs from breaker to the seat harness. Am using a breaker that plugs in a fuse holder like a fuse 40W. A fuse holder mounted near the fuse box under dash that would allow the power side from the Alt+ post wire to one side of fuse holder and other side would hold the seat lead and power the seat. Fuse holder I have in mind is very simple fuse holder with a connetion on each end.
Thanks for your help and do you agree I am on the right track w/wire layout?
Frank69

[johnta1]

Here's what I'm wondering.

Try using a jumper wire from one of the other middle fittings and jump to the top middle where the arrow is pointing.

I think this will give that fuse/breaker area power?

If not do as Quick said and run a dedicated power wire to the power seat wiring.

[Frank69]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Here's what I'm wondering.

Try using a jumper wire from one of the other middle fittings and jump to the top middle where the arrow is pointing.

I think this will give that fuse/breaker area power?

If not do as Quick said and run a dedicated power wire to the power seat wiring.

Thanks John.. I think I will try the dedicated wire method to avoid a prob with the old fuse box. Know the seat will not be going through the ign. so it will be hot all time. Been lots easier if dealer had ordered this car with a power seat option. Also much cheaper.
Best regards, Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

If you want to go ignition switch controlled power for the seat....need to use a relay for the ignition switch to turn off and on supplying power to the seat. Most all high amp draw accessories use relays similar to high speed blower fan.

Seems like the last big Pontiac I had, power seat worked without ignition being on.

Yes your plan sounds good. As long as battery wires on back of alternator are same size or bigger than what you'll be adding. That would be for moving the seat when the engines off or alt not charging.

I would add a short piece of fusible link wire, on the end of your power wire, where it hooks to the back of the alternator. Same safety measures the factory would have used.

Clay

[Frank69]

Hi Clay, Plan to use 10ga wire from alt to fuse. This seems to be the same as the factory wire feed I will use from the factory type 40amp breaker to the seat harness. Should I use l2 or 14 ga. fusible link wire from alt?: Going to leave the seat hot all time and not try to go through ign switch. If it worked in your ole Ponty it should work ok in mine. Thank you for all your input. Your the MAN!
Frank69

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

If you want to go ignition switch controlled power for the seat....need to use a relay for the ignition switch to turn off and on supplying power to the seat. Most all high amp draw accessories use relays similar to high speed blower fan.

Seems like the last big Pontiac I had, power seat worked without ignition being on.

Yes your plan sounds good. As long as battery wires on back of alternator are same size or bigger than what you'll be adding. That would be for moving the seat when the engines off or alt not charging.

I would add a short piece of fusible link wire, on the end of your power wire, where it hooks to the back of the alternator. Same safety measures the factory would have used.

Clay

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

Plan to use 10ga wire from alt to fuse. This seems to be the same as the factory wire feed I will use from the factory type 40amp breaker to the seat harness. Should I use l2 or 14 ga. fusible link wire from alt?

Four numbers smaller would be correct. With 10ga wire use a short 6" or so piece of 14ga fusible link. Shorter than 6" is fine but I wouldn't go longer.

For my own stuff; I solder spade terminals, on the fusible link and main wire, to make them easy to replace. Ring terminal on the alternator end. Just use good heavy duty terminals that'll stay connected tight.

Clay