| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I love a happy ending....
![]() ![]() ![]() Question for the experienced darksiders: is there a factory spec for drum 'drag' (assuming preload is properly set with the wheel bearing?) Obviously different from f/r, but the post that suggested maybe pushing shoes out was right on. Brake 'adjustment' was common in the day before discs were on everything, due both to wear and system 'relaxation.' We forget today there was a garage on every corner because every system on every car needed attention frequently. Fuel pumps, water pumps, carburetors, ignition, brakes, lubrication were all common tasks. Now the neighbors find it novel when someone crawls under a car to check it out and do routine work... |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Ragtop Man For This Useful Post: | ||
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
FWIW, my method is to adjust the shoes where there's about 3/4 turn of the tire with a good tug. The shoes will "adjust in" from there. NO pedal travel before grip. And I don't care if it takes 500 miles off the life of the shoes over their tenure. I have 40,000 miles on the Raybestos riveted shoes I put on my Bonneville in 2002 doin it that way. |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|